Cru Bourgeois Classification
In a description that could only have been invented by the French, the Crus Bourgeois are Médoc châteaux that produce wines of typicity and quality but generally without the breed of their finer aristocratic cousins from the 1855 Classification.
Born in 1932 in response to the dire market conditions of the post-war and post-Depression years, the purpose of the Cru Bourgeois classification was to identify and give a commercial boost to these lesser known estates. Although never officially ratified by the Agriculture Ministry, it is a name that has struck a chord with consumers, providing a beacon to guide them through the thousands of Bordeaux's Petits Châteaux.
Even if there is a wide variation in quality, Cru Bourgeois wines have
increasingly built a reputation for quality and value. Today, they represent
about 40% of the Médoc's total production.
The history of the Cru Bourgeois classification has been rocky, to say the
least. The 1932 classification designated 444 estates as Cru Bourgeois but by
the 1960s over 300 had been absorbed into other estates or had converted their
land away from viticulture. However, with the popularity and quality of Cru
Bourgeois wines at an all-time high a new classification was introduced in 2003
by the Alliance des Crus Bourgeois.
They split the wine into three tiers: Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel, Cru
Bourgeois Supérieur and Cru Bourgeois. It was also decided that the
classification would be redone every 12 years. Rating the estates based on
tasting each property's wines from 1994-1999, the Alliance showed an admirable
strictness rarely seen in wine classifications. Of the 490 châteaux that
applied for Cru Bourgeois status the Alliance accepted only 247. In the final
reckoning there were 9 Crus Bourgeois Exceptionels, 87 Crus Bourgeois
Supérieurs and 151 Crus Bourgeois.
All was not sweetness and light, however. Estates that had been recently
purchased, like Jean-Christophe Mau's Ch. Preuillac, complained bitterly
(and reasonably) that tasting only up to the 1999 vintage discriminated against
those estates which had recently improved. In 2004 a Bordeaux court found in
favour of the 76 estates who had complained. It declared their ranking within
the new classification void, but overall declared the classification
sound.
In 2007, however, a Bordeaux magistrate decided that the whole process had been
tainted by partiality and conflict of interest and thus decreed the whole 2003
Crus Bourgeois classification null and void. Soon afterwards the French fraud
office dealt the classification a seemingly mortal blow by banning the use of
the term 'Cru Bourgeois' altogether. Responding with admirable speed but
a misleading fudge, the Alliance des Crus Bourgeois swiftly proposed a rather
odd new term 'Label Cru Bourgeois' which would be 'not a
classification but a mark of quality' and would be based on production and
quality standards, awarded each year by tasting.
It was all getting very confusing but thankfully the end of February 2008 seems
to have brought hope and a light at the end of the tunnel for the beleaguered
Cru Bourgeois classification. Seemingly beset by a new spirit of cooperation
and conciliation, the Alliance des Crus Bourgeois have proposed a format for
the Cru Bourgeois classification to be reintroduced in 2009 that has been
agreed by 180 estates from the defunct 2003 ranking along with 95 new members.
Exact details remain sketchy but this single-tier classification will be based
on a new set of production rules (including 18 months ageing in barrel) and
independent quality testing. The terms Cru Bourgeois Supérieur or Cru
Bourgeois Exceptionnel will no longer be used. The Alliance (and indeed
everyone else) is hoping for official approval from the French authorities for
the new plan by mid-2008.
Below is a list of the estates from the now defunct 2003
classification:
Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel
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Château Chasse-Spleen Château Haut-Marbuzet Château Labégorce-Zédé Château Les Ormes de Pez Château de Pez |
Château Phélan-Ségur Château Potensac Château Poujeaux Château Siran |
Cru Bourgeois Supérieur
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Château d'Agassac Château d'Angludet Château Anthonic Château d'Arche Château Arnauld Château d'Arsac Château Beaumont Château Beau-Site Château Biston-Brillette Château Le Boscq Château Bournac Château Brillette Château Cambon La Pelouse Château Cap Léon Veyrin Château La Cardonne Château Caronne Ste-Gemme Château Castera Château Chambert-Marbuzet Château Charmail Château Cissac Château Citran Château Clarke Château Clauzet Château Clément Pichon Château Colombier-Monpelou Château Coufran Château Le Crock Château Dutruch Grand Poujeaux Château d'Escurac Château Fonbadet Château Fonréaud Château Fourcas Dupré Château Fourcas Hosten Château Fourcas Loubaney Château du Glana Château Les Grands Chênes Château Gressier Grand Poujeaux Château Greysac Château La Gurgue Château Hanteillanc Château Haut-Bages Monpelou Château La Haye Château Labégorce Château Lachesnaye |
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