2001 Burgundy Vintage 10 Years On
Côte de Beaune reds
2001 is one of those vintages widely regarded as better in the Côte de Nuits than the Côte de Beaune (excepting perhaps Corton) and especially so where the vines were damaged by hail as was the case in Volnay. However there were good wines from Savigny, especially Pavelot’s Les Guettes and Lucien Jacob’s Peuillets and some respectable Beaunes. Indeed Michel Lafarge’s Beaune Grèves was a clear cut above his Volnay Clos des Chênes, where the crop had been badly hit by hail. Lafon’s Volnay Santenots, while without the depth of fruit of other vintages was still very commendable, but the pick of the Côte de Beaune wines were two Pommards, Grand Clos des Epenots (de Courcel) and especially the Comte Armand’s Clos des Epeneaux.
Also enjoyed: Pommard Clos de Verger, Billard-Gonnet, Pommard Rugiens, JM Boillot, Savigny Marconnets, Simon Bize, Beaune Pertuisots, Devevey Also tasted: Givry Clos Salomon; Savigny Peuillets, Champy; Beaune Aux Cras, Champy; Pommard Pezerolles, AF Gros. François Mikulski’s Volnay Santenots and Michel Lafarge’s Volnay Clos des Chênes both had qualities which were marred by the effects of hail.
Côte de Nuits reds
The opening pair of Marsannay wines set the paradigm for the vintage. One was from a hands-off, or perhaps more accurately, foot-off-the-throttle producer, Bruno Clair, who produced a wine of grace and charm, immediately seductive in bouquet, but perhaps lacking fruit-weight on the palate. The other was a more heavily extracted wine, l’Ancestrale from Sylvain Pataille, which was less charming but had more weight of fruit. Both routes could work well in 2001, without either producing genuinely ‘great’ wines.
Nuits St Georges
There were too few examples to draw any real conclusions, but as with the two Marsannay wines, the premiers crus from Domaine de l’Arlot and Henri Gouges showed dramatically contrasting styles which both worked.
Also enjoyed: Lucien Boillot, Les Pruliers (15.5)
Also tasted: Robert Chevillon, Les Vaucrains (some oxidation to this bottle)
Vosne Romanée
Some great wines here and a couple of disappointments, not least the scarcity of samples from this outstanding village.
Also enjoyed: Les Brulées, Michel Gros
Also tasted: Clos des Réas, Michel Gros; Richebourg, A-F Gros
Chambolle Musigny (& Clos Vougeot)
We were perhaps a touch underwhelmed by the overall showing from this village, with both Bonnes Mares showing some good qualities but falling short of expectations, though the Musignys scored well. Overall the excitement factor was missing.
Also enjoyed: Chambolle-Musigny, J-F Mugnier; Bonnes Mares, Comte de Vogüé; Bonnes Mares, Georges Roumier.
Morey St Denis
Excellent results from this often undervalued commune, though what might have been the best wine showed some flaws in the particular magnum on show.
Gevrey Chambertin
Overall a very successful showing with no failures among the significant number of samples (16) from eleven different producers. Hardly anything to complain about at all really….
Also enjoyed: Mes Favorites, Alain Burguet; Poissenot, Domaine Humbert; Petite-Chapelle, Dupont-Tisserandot; Chambertin Clos de Bèze, Bouchard Père & Fils
White Wines
The whites were more variable, with some showing noticeable ageing, others delicious to drink now and just a few still with the power to develop further. 2001 remains fractionally anonymous in style, with no specific feature standing out. Good wines though. There were few surprises among the successful producers
Also enjoyed: St Aubin Clos de la Chatenière 16.0, Lamy; Meursault Tete de Murger. Javillier; Meursault Clos de la Barre, Lafon; Meursault Perrières, Matrot; Puligny-Montrachet Truffière, JM Boillot, Chablis Les Clos, Drouhin; Corton-Charlemagne Bonneau du Martray; Pouilly-Vinzelles Longeays 15.5, Bret Bros; Puligny-Montrachet ChampCanet, JM Boillot;
Afterword
A few producers also brought along wines from 1991. Outstanding amongst these were Olivier Merlin’s Macon La Roche Vineuse Vieilles Vignes, still a pleasure to drink after 20 years, Bonneau du Martray’s Corton-Charlemagne, a more classical example of its appellation than the 2001, Jean-Marc Boillot’s Pommard Rugiens and Camille Giroud’s Echezeaux.
2001 is one of those vintages widely regarded as better in the Côte de Nuits than the Côte de Beaune (excepting perhaps Corton) and especially so where the vines were damaged by hail as was the case in Volnay. However there were good wines from Savigny, especially Pavelot’s Les Guettes and Lucien Jacob’s Peuillets and some respectable Beaunes. Indeed Michel Lafarge’s Beaune Grèves was a clear cut above his Volnay Clos des Chênes, where the crop had been badly hit by hail. Lafon’s Volnay Santenots, while without the depth of fruit of other vintages was still very commendable, but the pick of the Côte de Beaune wines were two Pommards, Grand Clos des Epenots (de Courcel) and especially the Comte Armand’s Clos des Epeneaux.
Beautiful pure and still youthful colour, with a really clear and classy bouquet. Still youthful, but open and ready to be enjoyed. There is lift and a sense of excitement on the palate with a really long fine finish. Harmonious.
Good clear colour, one of the deeper ones. Immediate and attractive nose with a touch of oak, the stems well integrated on the nose though they offer a characteristic drier touch to the palate. Excellent length.
Pale. Bright colour; beautifully perfumed. More cherry scented than strawberry. Perhaps this could offer more complexity on the palate but it is thoroughly enjoyable. Approachable now but will still keep.
Medium-deep colour, still youthful. Restrained nose with a touch of oak, which shows again on the finish. However very attractive fruit continues through the middle, an excellent Volnay for the vintage if not at the level of Lafon’s finest Santenots.
Solid, raw, youthful colour and still backward on the nose. Plenty of fruit evident on the palate with youthful intensity, good weight and length. Impressive already but the best is still to come.
Still youthful colour with delicious red fruit on the nose. There is impressive density to the palate, with a few tannins evident – the pick of the Savignys and still with a future.
Still youthful colour with delicious red fruit on the nose. There is impressive density to the palate, with a few tannins evident – the pick of the Savignys and still with a future.
Good clear colour showing correct ageing. Some freshness and purity of fruit but ready to drink with good length. Enjoyable Savigny.
Also enjoyed: Pommard Clos de Verger, Billard-Gonnet, Pommard Rugiens, JM Boillot, Savigny Marconnets, Simon Bize, Beaune Pertuisots, Devevey Also tasted: Givry Clos Salomon; Savigny Peuillets, Champy; Beaune Aux Cras, Champy; Pommard Pezerolles, AF Gros. François Mikulski’s Volnay Santenots and Michel Lafarge’s Volnay Clos des Chênes both had qualities which were marred by the effects of hail.
Côte de Nuits reds
The opening pair of Marsannay wines set the paradigm for the vintage. One was from a hands-off, or perhaps more accurately, foot-off-the-throttle producer, Bruno Clair, who produced a wine of grace and charm, immediately seductive in bouquet, but perhaps lacking fruit-weight on the palate. The other was a more heavily extracted wine, l’Ancestrale from Sylvain Pataille, which was less charming but had more weight of fruit. Both routes could work well in 2001, without either producing genuinely ‘great’ wines.
Nuits St Georges
There were too few examples to draw any real conclusions, but as with the two Marsannay wines, the premiers crus from Domaine de l’Arlot and Henri Gouges showed dramatically contrasting styles which both worked.
This was a wine on perfect form from first sniff at its heavenly perfume, redolent of crushed strawberries, to the smooth and satisfying texture of the fruit on the palate and relatively long aftertaste. Perfect now.
Nothing like as enjoyable a drink now as the wine above, but with great potential for the future. Dark and vigorous in colour, with a huge concentration of fruit on the nose. Massive weight on the palate too. This is a really hunky style of pinot, but pinot it still is.
Also enjoyed: Lucien Boillot, Les Pruliers (15.5)
Also tasted: Robert Chevillon, Les Vaucrains (some oxidation to this bottle)
Vosne Romanée
Some great wines here and a couple of disappointments, not least the scarcity of samples from this outstanding village.
Fine, medium deep colour. Very stylish nose with a faint touch of strawberries, multi-layered and enticing. Everything then tightens up in the glass, as if a carapace was sliding over the fruit to hold it back for future generations. This will be a sublime wine but it needs time.
Exceptionally deep in colour though lively and bright; very youthful nose full of energy. Some new oak overlays an astonishing intensity of fruit. Adorable, and fully ready.
Pure, deep red with a nose which was restrained for a long time before eventually blossoming. Tightly knit on the palate with some tannins showing. The score mounted on retasting as more layers developed. Needs time still.
Fine, youthful red. Much less explosive than the Cathiard version but with attractive flavours which linger on the palate.
Also enjoyed: Les Brulées, Michel Gros
Also tasted: Clos des Réas, Michel Gros; Richebourg, A-F Gros
Chambolle Musigny (& Clos Vougeot)
We were perhaps a touch underwhelmed by the overall showing from this village, with both Bonnes Mares showing some good qualities but falling short of expectations, though the Musignys scored well. Overall the excitement factor was missing.
Rich, youthful colour with power on the nose currently masking some of the detail. More sumptuous, indeed velvetier, than Mugnier’s Musigny and perhaps with greater length. It gets the nod between the two today.
Medium colour, absolutely bright. Heavenly perfume, heady yet still fine. Beautifully balanced, very harmonious with a lot of detail, but do not expect massive weight. Frédéric Mugnier’s light touch has delivered a very fine wine, but without all the majesty of a sunnier vintage.
Medium deep colour. A touch of oak with good fruit alongside on the bouquet, while a wealth of succulent fruit emerges on the palate. Much to enjoy.
Perfect pinot colour, middling deep but bright and enticing. Soft and generous across the palate, a pleasure to drink now with all the welcoming warmth of good Chambolle.
In the end I could not separate this from the Charmes though the wines are quite different. This is deeper in colour but leaner in style, showing its hillside origin. Perhaps less ripe but with a greater fund of energy for the future.
There was much to enjoy in this wine made from ancient vines. The quality of the fruit was impeccable with an attractive spiciness, but a slight rusticity mars the finish.
Thoroughly enjoyable from the beautiful pure red colour onwards, but one would have liked a touch more intensity to the fruit from such a great vineyard.
Also enjoyed: Chambolle-Musigny, J-F Mugnier; Bonnes Mares, Comte de Vogüé; Bonnes Mares, Georges Roumier.
Morey St Denis
Excellent results from this often undervalued commune, though what might have been the best wine showed some flaws in the particular magnum on show.
I came back to this wine several times and liked it more on each occasion. Lovely pure bright colour and scintillating nose with a touch of white pepper overlying the fruit. Not dramatically powerful but with real intensity and a complete sensation across all parts of the palate. Stimulating and harmonious. Enjoy now or keep.
Middling deep colour, with a lovely, hauntingly beautiful nose due in part to the inclusion of stems. It is not a heavyweight but a beautiful, harmonious glass of wine. Enjoy soon, though it will also keep.
Less together than the Clos St Denis, hence a lower score, though in fact the wine has more fruit weight. It is mellow but not quite so harmonious. It could pull itself together and challenge its sibling, or else drift further apart.
One of the deepest colours of all, though with a slightly bizarre nose. Rich and concentrated on the palate but there were one or two pointers to a touch of oxidation attributable to this bottle rather than the wine as a whole. I felt this could have scored very highly from another magnum.
Perhaps a touch one-paced but nonetheless the pure fruit and youthful precision gave advance warning of the qualities to come with the Dujac grands crus.
Gevrey Chambertin
Overall a very successful showing with no failures among the significant number of samples (16) from eleven different producers. Hardly anything to complain about at all really….
There is always a nagging doubt in my mind when the same producers come out on top each time in tastings not done blind, but even so it was not hard to champion this superb wine from Armand Rousseau. The colour was perfectly pitched and the nose immediately and immensely appealing. A completely lovely wine, the longest finish of all, becoming cooler and purer as it develops in the mouth. Approachable now.
A touch more evolution to the colour than their cousins’ example, and with generous weight on the palate. Sometimes I find the fruit needs more precise definition at this domaine, but here the natural austerity of the vintage keeps everything in balance.
Medium deep in colour, but what really attracts is the swelling volume of haunting fruit that Denis manages almost every time with his Charmes-Chambertin. No more than middle bodied but so sensual. This can be approached now, but no hurry.
Medium-deep in colour, quite restrained on the nose with just a touch of oak showing at the moment. It builds nicely to the back and finishes well. Very good wine, though I can remember even more impressive showings.
A little touch of oak but this does not mask the fruit. A solid wine with significant weight, but without the style of their Chapelle-Chambertin (which was then already being farmed biodynamically, whereas the Chambertin was not yet).
One of the lighter colours, yet delivering a quite delicious perfume, elegant, charming, stylish and long without any especial stuffing.
Fine bright purple with a generous “Charmes” fruit. Very well made, perhaps missing a touch of emotion to lift it to a higher score. The fruit kicks on well at the finish.
Pale, bright colour; lovely perfume to this, easy on the palate, gracious fruit, very agreeable. Perhaps could have used a touch more energy, but no complaints.
A toss up which was the better wine between this and the Fonteny, which means that on the day the Clos St Jacques was slightly underperforming against expectations. This had more colour and an initial enchanting perfume but not quite enough density in the middle: pleasing but not compelling.
Deep, dark colour, but bright rather than dull. A fraction of menthol on the nose at first but this blows off. Weighty, with plenty of charm, while the perceptible tannins are matched by the fruit. Drink or keep.
Bright colour of middling depth, with not much initial bouquet. However the palate shows greater density than expected and good acidity brings up the finish. To keep.
A cut above the same producer’s Nuits St Georges Pruliers, this Cherbaudes demonstrated a lovely perfume with attractive fruit on the mid palate and decent length. Enjoy now.
Also enjoyed: Mes Favorites, Alain Burguet; Poissenot, Domaine Humbert; Petite-Chapelle, Dupont-Tisserandot; Chambertin Clos de Bèze, Bouchard Père & Fils
White Wines
The whites were more variable, with some showing noticeable ageing, others delicious to drink now and just a few still with the power to develop further. 2001 remains fractionally anonymous in style, with no specific feature standing out. Good wines though. There were few surprises among the successful producers
Lovely pale clear colour with the faintest hint of match-stick sulphur. Clean, pure and delicious on the palate, with greater mid palate weight than Roulot’s fine village wine.
Pale colour, fine and fragrant, well poised and with impeccable length. Indeed the best is in the aftertaste.
Clean, clear bright yellow colour. Very pure fresh nose, a tannin or two, then lovely pure fruit across the palate. Superbly balanced with a fine crisp finish.
Fine and clear with pale green tints. Thoroughly enticing with charm and a creamy purity on the palate. Just reaching a good place, but no hurry.
Fine full clear colour. A faint touch of sulphur on the nose, very complete on the palate. Perfect balance, grace and length.
Medium-full colour with a beautifully complex nose, multi-layered. A little touch of verbena mixed in. Lovely texture across the palate and decent length at the back. Drink or keep.
Bright and pale colour. An immediately delicious bouquet leaps out. Fuller bodied than Lamy’s Chatenière with an impressive finish with creamy notes. Still youthful and energetic.
One of the fuller colours, soft and generous on the nose with a honeyed undertone. Still very energetic on the palate with charm, weight and length. Drink soon.
Today, from this bottle, the Genevrières unusually has to take second place to the Poruzots. There is a touch more colour and indeed evolution of the fruit. Still good but not on peak form.
Fullish colour but the fruit on the nose is not too evolved. Good weight on the palate. This does not quite break out of its shackles but there is plenty of interest.
Fullish colour but classy and still fresh nose. Tightly wound on the palate, lifting towards the back, and impressive length. Drink soon.
The palest colour of the whites and little bouquet at first. But fine, elegant, chiselled and pure on the palate, with a classy hillside feel to it. Côte de Nuits whites suffer in comparison because we are not familiar with their terroirs.
Also enjoyed: St Aubin Clos de la Chatenière 16.0, Lamy; Meursault Tete de Murger. Javillier; Meursault Clos de la Barre, Lafon; Meursault Perrières, Matrot; Puligny-Montrachet Truffière, JM Boillot, Chablis Les Clos, Drouhin; Corton-Charlemagne Bonneau du Martray; Pouilly-Vinzelles Longeays 15.5, Bret Bros; Puligny-Montrachet ChampCanet, JM Boillot;
Afterword
A few producers also brought along wines from 1991. Outstanding amongst these were Olivier Merlin’s Macon La Roche Vineuse Vieilles Vignes, still a pleasure to drink after 20 years, Bonneau du Martray’s Corton-Charlemagne, a more classical example of its appellation than the 2001, Jean-Marc Boillot’s Pommard Rugiens and Camille Giroud’s Echezeaux.
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