Domaine Claude-Dugat
Domain Claude Dugat is a tiny domaine in Burgundy with cult status, and the quality to match. Claude Dugat has the good fortune to work in the Cellier des Dimes, purchased by his father Maurice in 1955. This, previously known as the Grange des Dimes, was where the locals would bring their tithe of grapes or cereal, depending on their holdings, for the benefit of the church. The building was constructed in 1219 though the stone pillars inside are thought to date back to Gallo-Roman times.
The Dugats – Claude, assisted by his wife, son and two daughters – have three hectares of their own and a further three rented. The younger generation also run a very small negociant business alongside, La Gibryotte, just covering the wines of their commune – Bourgogne Rouge, Gevrey Chambertin, Gevrey Chambertin 1er cru (unspecified) and Charmes-Chambertin.
The key to quality here is the raw material, from vines which naturally produce small berries through control of vigour. “I want just as many bunches as my neighbour, but berries half the size”. Claude Dugat is not one of the late picking faction in Gevrey because his grapes are properly ripe in good time.
The grapes are entirely destalked and fermentation is allowed to start straight away, but there is virtually no pumping over so as to restrict the ingress of oxygen and to avoid too tumultuous fermentation. Instead the grapes are punched down twice a day. Total vatting time is about two weeks after which the juice is left to settle for two days before going to barrel. The Bourgogne is entirely in one year old wood, the village Gevrey a mix of 60% new and 40% one year old, and the various crus are entirely in new wood. All the barrels are provided by Francois Frères.
Claude Dugat has evidently worked out what he wants to achieve and how he is going to get there. These are unusually rich, concentrated wines, without any feel of over extraction. Though there is a sumptuous outer layer which makes the wines attractive in youth, they are clearly built to age.
Charmes Chambertin, Grand Cru 0.31
Griotte Chambertin, Grand Cru 0.15
Chapelle Chambertin, Grand Cru 0.10
Gevrey Chambertin 1er cru Lavaux St Jacques 0.40
Gevrey Chambertin 1er cru (Craipillot , La Perrière) 0.40
Gevrey Chambertin 3.00
Gevrey Chambertin
Made up from 12 different plots all around the appellation, with an average age of over 50 years. This is a very solid, rich example of village Gevrey-Chambertin, attractive young but built to last.
Gevrey Chambertin 1er cru Lavaux St Jacques
The Dugat holding is in the upper part of the vineyard where there is not much soil, so it can suffer in a hot dry year. This can be a spectacularly fine, red fruited Gevrey-Chambertin.
Charmes Chambertin
Claude Dugat describes his Charmes as combining power, elegance and ‘gentillesse’ which in this sense I would translate as grace. Certainly his wine is immediately mouth-filling, wearing an overcoat of succulence over the central core of red and black fruit. A huge nmouthful.
Griotte Chambertin
At least as good as the Charmes-Chambertin but quite different in profile. The wine starts more quietly in the mouth but then opens out to a superb finish with amazing persistence. The bouquet is noticeably more floral than the fruit-driven Charmes, or indeed his more austere Chapelle-Chambertin.
The Dugats – Claude, assisted by his wife, son and two daughters – have three hectares of their own and a further three rented. The younger generation also run a very small negociant business alongside, La Gibryotte, just covering the wines of their commune – Bourgogne Rouge, Gevrey Chambertin, Gevrey Chambertin 1er cru (unspecified) and Charmes-Chambertin.
The key to quality here is the raw material, from vines which naturally produce small berries through control of vigour. “I want just as many bunches as my neighbour, but berries half the size”. Claude Dugat is not one of the late picking faction in Gevrey because his grapes are properly ripe in good time.
The grapes are entirely destalked and fermentation is allowed to start straight away, but there is virtually no pumping over so as to restrict the ingress of oxygen and to avoid too tumultuous fermentation. Instead the grapes are punched down twice a day. Total vatting time is about two weeks after which the juice is left to settle for two days before going to barrel. The Bourgogne is entirely in one year old wood, the village Gevrey a mix of 60% new and 40% one year old, and the various crus are entirely in new wood. All the barrels are provided by Francois Frères.
Claude Dugat has evidently worked out what he wants to achieve and how he is going to get there. These are unusually rich, concentrated wines, without any feel of over extraction. Though there is a sumptuous outer layer which makes the wines attractive in youth, they are clearly built to age.
Charmes Chambertin, Grand Cru 0.31
Griotte Chambertin, Grand Cru 0.15
Chapelle Chambertin, Grand Cru 0.10
Gevrey Chambertin 1er cru Lavaux St Jacques 0.40
Gevrey Chambertin 1er cru (Craipillot , La Perrière) 0.40
Gevrey Chambertin 3.00
Gevrey Chambertin
Made up from 12 different plots all around the appellation, with an average age of over 50 years. This is a very solid, rich example of village Gevrey-Chambertin, attractive young but built to last.
Gevrey Chambertin 1er cru Lavaux St Jacques
The Dugat holding is in the upper part of the vineyard where there is not much soil, so it can suffer in a hot dry year. This can be a spectacularly fine, red fruited Gevrey-Chambertin.
Charmes Chambertin
Claude Dugat describes his Charmes as combining power, elegance and ‘gentillesse’ which in this sense I would translate as grace. Certainly his wine is immediately mouth-filling, wearing an overcoat of succulence over the central core of red and black fruit. A huge nmouthful.
Griotte Chambertin
At least as good as the Charmes-Chambertin but quite different in profile. The wine starts more quietly in the mouth but then opens out to a superb finish with amazing persistence. The bouquet is noticeably more floral than the fruit-driven Charmes, or indeed his more austere Chapelle-Chambertin.
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