Domaine de L'Arlot

Domaine de L'Arlot was created in 1987 by giant insurance company AXA. They appointed Jean Pierre de Smet as winemaker and the Domaine has not looked back since. Smet, an accountant by training, is one of Burgundy`s more romantic characters, having previously been an international skier and a renowned long-distance yachtsman. Together they set up a management company to run the business as a 50:50 partnership, until AXA took 100% control on Jean-Pierre’s retirement in 2006. The original property consisted of three monopoles, Clos du Chapeau in Comblanchien, Clos de l’Arlot where the domaine is based and Clos des Forêts St Georges. In 1991 they were able to buy a small slice of Romanée St Vivant and the following year some Vosne Romanée Les Suchots, bringing the domaine up to 14 hectares in all. Olivier Leriche joined the business as a stagière in 1998, was hired full time and took over from Jean-Pierre de Smet in 2006. The vineyard has been farmed biodynamically in part since 2000 and entirely from 2003.
 
In 1987 the vineyards were in poor condition and a great deal of replanting was necessary. Slowly, the quality of wines improved and from 1991 the Domaine has made superb wines every year.

There is a clear influence from Domaine Dujac, Jean-Pierre being a long time friend and protégé of Jacques Seysses, both in the wines and indeed how the cuvérie is laid out. There is a sorting table in the vineyard and another vibrating table back at base camp. Stalks are retained as much as possible (though less for Clos de l’Arlot than Clos des Forêts). The domaine purchases and air dries its own wood for 2 to 3 years, using Rémond as the cooper to make the barrels. Around 40% new wood is used for Clos de l’Arlot, slightly more for Clos des Forêts and Romanée St Vivant.
 
The younger vines from Clos de l’Arlot and Clos des Forêts are vinified and bottled apart and are sold as Le Petit Arlot and 1er cru Les Petits Plets respectively, while there is also a second white wine from part of Clos de l’Arlot sold as Nuits St Georges Blanc La Gerbotte. These are beautifully balanced wines, lightly coloured but intensely flavoured.

Romanée St Vivant, Grand Cru                                                          0.25 ha
Vosne Romanée 1er cru Les Suchots                                             0.85 ha
Nuits St Georges 1er cru Clos des Forêts St Georges                 7.20 ha
Nuits St Georges 1er cru Clos de l’Arlot (red & white)                   4.00 ha
Côte de Nuits Villages Clos du Chapeau Monopole                     1.55 ha
Côte de Nuits Villages Aux Leureys Blanc                                       0.26 ha
 
Clos de l’Arlot
One needs to be familiar with this vineyard to see its worth. Jean-Pierre de Smet was inclined to be dismissive of its merits when he arrived at the domaine, but by the time he retired he was smitten. The colour of the wine, even in barrel, is inclined to be pale and even somewhat evolved. You have to search for the fruit, but somehow the perfume lingers even after tasting for an unnaturally long time. This shows too in the bottle, with the wine gaining in structure and complexity over 10 to 15 years.
 
Clos des Forêts St Georges
More appealing in youth than Clos de l’Arlot, with a denser and fresher colour, the Forêts seems to show the whole bunch character a little less obviously than the Clos de l’Arlot. There is more fruit weight and less smoke in the perfume. This too ages very well.