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Christophe and Fabrice Delorme at Domaine de la Mordorée did not take long to project this fine estate (which is named, somewhat poetically, after a woodcock) into the Premier League. Based in the Southern Rhone appellation of Tavel, the brothers make, as one would expect, delicious rosé wine in addition to a very fine Lirac and an excellent Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Christophe produced his first wines there in 1987. Up until that time the estate had been little more than a hobby for his father, an industrialist with two great passions; shooting and wine. Christophe totally refurbished and modernised the winery as well as replanting much of the vineyards. Today the domaine has 40 hectares of vineyards - 7 hectares in Tavel, 15 hectares in Lirac (top-notch examples), 16 hectares for generic Côtes-du-Rhône and 3 hectares in Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
The vineyards are organically cultivated as much as possible, only using chemical weedkillers and pesticides as a very last resort. As for the winemaking, the grapes are all systematically destemmed upon arrival at the winery and vinification takes place in temperature controlled stainless steel fermenters. The wines are then matured in a mixture of stainless steel vats and new oak barrels. The Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée de la Reine des Bois is a limited bottling only produced in the very finest years.
A nose of stone fruit (peach and apricot), pear and violets followed by a palate that contains all of the hallmarks of premium quality white Rhone, namely an opulent and waxy texture, re-assuring weight and a long finish. This is lovely now but will be happy in the cellar for a couple of years should you prove stoical in your patience.
Nicholas Stewart, Wine Buying
A nose of stone-fruit (peach and apricot), pear and violets followed by a palate that contains all the hallmarks of premium quality white Rhône, namely an opulent and waxy texture, re-assuring weight and a long finish. This is lovely now but will be happy in the cellar for at least a couple of years-should you prove stoical in your patience. Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer Christophe Delorme describes 2013 as ‘atypical’, citing parsimonious yields of eight hectolitres per hectare for the Grenache in his Châteauneuf vineyards and a reduction in volume of his Lirac of over 50 percent. Such things make cash flow hard to predict, let alone manage; the prospect inspires a Gallic shrug and the observation that quality must be maintained, even with volumes which are far from profitable. This, it seems, has been achieved. His parting shot is to describe the wines as ‘rare – but great’. A fabulous white, Mordorée’s 2013 Lirac La Reine des Bois Blanc checks in as a blend of just about every permitted white variety, including Grenache Blanc, Viognier, Roussanne, Marsanne, Picpoul and others. Aged all in stainless steel, it exhibits beautifully clean, mineral-laced notes of citrus rind, pear, honeysuckle and white flowers. This flows to a medium-bodied, refreshing, pure and elegant white that has integrated acidity, plenty of fruit and a classy finish. Drink it over the coming 2-4 years. Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 (Part 2) Jan 2015
Bottle 6 x 75cl10cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl21cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl7cs
Bottle 6 x 75cl55cs
The Delorme brothers have, since 1986, forged an enviable reputation. They are based to the south-east in the village of Tavel, celebrated for its rosé wines, but they also own 4 hectares of vines on the Crau plateau of Châteauneuf-du-Pape and a very well-positioned parcel in Lirac. Christophe is adamant that 2010 is their best ever vintage; the key to its quality is the juxtaposition of trademark concentration and very fine tannins, much finer, he maintains than in 2007 or 2009, both highly successful years of course. Mordorée are aiming for full organic certification in 2013, aided in no small measure by the new member of the team…Sarko the horse…(at least I think that this is the name they gave!)
Bottle 6 x 75cl1cs