2004 Ch. Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan

Winemaker/administrator Jean Delmas considers this to be his best wine since 2000. Only 55% of the production - a blend of 61% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 19% Cabernet Franc - has gone into the hedonistic Grand Vin. Enticing aromas of ripe, spicy plums and raisins with nuances of tobacco, minerals and vanilla entice you to take a sip. It is completely delicious, with notes of Swiss chocolate, sweet fruit, toast and cinnamon spice and fine tannins. An exceptionally pure, round and extremely polished wine.

An atypically high percentage of Merlot (61%) in addition to 19% Cabernet Franc, and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon make up the 2004 Haut-Brion. Fifty-five percent of the production was utilized for the grand vin, a surprisingly forward, charming, silky effort despite the relatively high tannin. The nose is still a little mute giving a moderate intensity of youthful aromas: ripe plums, cassis, Chinese five spice, moss and a fair amount of cedar. Oak tannins seem to dominate the structure contributing to the taut astringency of the palate yet there is a good amount of ripe berry and earthy fruit plus medium acidity to balance. Long earthy finish. Drink 2012 to 2034. Tasted February 2009.
(Lisa Perrotti-Brown - In Asia - erobertparker.com - May 2009)