2004 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe

A typically powerful and persuasive wine from Daniel Brunier; the wine is like the man, deeply passionate and extremely eloquent. The hot microclimate of Le Crau yields wines which are often reserved in youth, and this is no exception. Behind the demure exterior is a savoury feast that will take years to yield its full potential.