2004 Ch. Mouton-Rothschild, Pauillac

Often criticised for being somewhat exotic and 'new world' in style, the 2004 Mouton shows pure 'old world' charm. This is possibly because a new winemaker, from Ch. Branaire, has taken over this year. The nose is rich and spicy with lovely ripe Cabernet fruit - the blend comprises 69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Cabernet Franc, 15% Merlot and 3% Petit Verdot - which is a bit more subtle on the palate. Round and velvety with plenty of ripe tannins and great balance, this is more approachable than the other First Growths and is easily as good as Mouton's 2000 and 2002.

It is probably unfair to appraise this wine with more mature siblings. It has a deep garnet core. There is good intensity on the nose with cedar, tobacco, pine forest and blackberry leaf. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, quite masculine and obdurate at the moment with a grainy, austere finish. Moderate length. It needs to muster more charm but I remain cautiously optimistic.
(Neal Martin- The Wine Advocate- February 2011)