Marc Tres Vieux de Bourgogne, Cartron

Joseph Cartron, is one of France's leading producers of liqueurs and Eaux De Vie, perhaps best known for its Creme de Cassis. However they also manage to prove that good Marc does exist. Marc (pronounced mahr, rhymes with car) is made, as is grappa, by distilling the pips and skins left in the press after juice has been extracted from wine grapes. Some producers use the stalks, too, but they can add an off-putting straw-like flavour.

Unlike grappa, it is aged in wood, taking on a rich, tawny colour. Properly speaking, marc is the mass of pulpy leftovers; officially, the distillate is eau de vie de marc, usually known as marc for short. Marc de Bourgogne is the best expression that France has to offer. Hard to find outside the districts where it is produced, marc is a heady, earthy-tasting. Somewhat of an acquired taste, however once acquired it's wonderful.