2007 Cos d'Estournel, St. Estèphe

The good news is that Cos is as close to the First Growths as it has ever been. A pure Cabernet nose is impressively supported by minerally cassis fruit, dark chocolate, licorice and lovely ripe tannins. It is one of the very few 2007s with real intensity, a result of late picking and the lowest yields since the excellent 2002.

Obviously we wish this wine was less expensive, and the strong Euro cannot be blamed on the Château's pricing policy, but we feel obliged to point out there are other wines that offer considerably better value for money. We cannot condone the price for the 2007, but we feel we have to make an offer as it is one of the world's great wines.

"Determinedly, almost exaggeratedly, modern style. Firm, very concentrated nose. Something strange on the nose – very distinctive. Extremely concentrated! And then reasonably supple on the palate – but quite low acid and freshness. A certain rawness but great attack and beef. One of the most distinctive wines of the vintage but a bit forced. All created by the early cutting of the shoots in June – taking a risk that the summer would not be hot. (Otherwise the fruit risked being sunburnt.) Strictly for modernists." (Jancis Robinson)
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