2007 Ch. Haut-Bages Libéral, Pauillac

Run by the delightful livewire that is Claire Villars, this underrated estate continues its climb up the Pauillac hit parade in 2007. With a hefty 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and only 10% Merlot, this is gorgeously feminine, almost Margaux-esque. Its pure, cassis nose, and elegant blackberry, chocolate and cedar flavours are supported by attractive but firm tannins. Well-integrated, pretty, refined and approachable, this is as full of personality as Claire's bright orange winery (her favourite colour). With refreshing honesty, she compares this to her 1999 although we think it is rather better than that. A delightful 2007 Pauillac.

Fine intense red, blackcurrant fruit with a touch of florality, firm and on the lean side, but good length and precision of flavour.
Steven Spurrier