2007 Ch. Léoville-Barton, St Julien

As ever, the urbane Antony Barton is the voice of reason in 2007: prices must come down but we should not forget that 2007 has yielded some very good wines. His Léoville-Barton is convincing proof of that! More feminine than usual with lovely charm and finesse, this Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated (70%) wine has harmonious, focused black cherry and blackberry fruit supported by firm but supple tannins and an impressive minerality. Creamy and restrained it has the cedar and leather notes of great St Julien. Like a finely tailored bespoke suit, this Léoville-Barton is perfectly judged and as classy as ever.

Intense black-red, restrained but well-expressed concentration of fruit, a little spice and more going on than most other wines, good depth, personality and precision of fruit, good future.
Steven Spurrier