2005 Ch. Cheval Blanc, St Emilion

Director Pierre Lurton has produced an extraordinary Cheval Blanc in 2005 with wonderful purity and class, emphasizing beauty over power. Like so many of the great 2005s this starts slowly and then snowballs into an avalanche of flavour, getting more and more complex and intense as it goes. With its floral, bitter chocolate and ripe black fruit nose this is immediately very different to other wines we have tasted. Crushed coffee beans enhance the sensational blackberry fruit amidst a palate of great poise, harmony and luxurious polish.

The dense ruby/purple-hued 2005 Cheval Blanc's ethereal bouquet of menthol, coffee, wet stones, black cherries, blackberries, and hints of graphite and spice soars from the glass. An equal part blend of Cabernet Franc and Merlot, it is medium to full-bodied with a gorgeous texture in addition to high tannins that glide over the palate with no angularity or astringency. While it does not quite reach the perfection of the 2000, it should rival the profound 1998 and 1990. This is not a Cheval Blanc for near-term drinking as it demands at least a decade's worth of cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2035.

(Robert Parker - Wine Advocate - 30-Apr-2008)