1994 Brunello di Montalcino, Gianfranco Soldera

As top Brunello shifts from a primary personality to a more developed and complex secondary, so the flavours migrate from the bright red berried notes to those of a briary, forest floor nature. So it is with Gianfranco's 1994, that the overriding aromatics are those of frutta da bosco/forest fruit, wood-smoke, leaf litter, while the mouthfeel is a largely savory one, crammed with grilled meat, loganberry, dried herbs;

a plethora of flavours and sensations, mostly defying description but providing immense gratification amid the feeling that, 14 years on, the wine is hitting a plateau of admirable drinkability, till 2024. Perfect with jugged hare or other 'high' game. The wine  would benefit from an hour's decanting at least.
(David Berry Green, BBR Buyer).