2006 Au Bon Climat Chardonnay, Sanford & Benedict Vineyard, Santa Ynez

Burgundian in sensibility but with California style is one way of describing Jim Clendenen's Chardonnays, structure and restraint melded with bountiful opulence is another. In the glass, buttery brioche marries with tropical fruits in an irresistible elixir that will leave the bottle drained before you know it. Try it with turbot for a match of delicacy and richness.

Forget any preconceptions that you may have when it comes to US Chardonnay – this wine has the ripeness that one would expect but has a fabulous level of acidity and minerality holding everything together.