1998 Mailly Grand Cru Les Echansons

This is the top wine in Mailly’s excellent range. Made from 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay, sourced from specific parcels within the Grand Cru, some of which date from 1938. The nose combines agrumes (citrus and manderin) with mirabelle plum and pear, added to hints of Viennese pastry, honey and almond. 1998 is a somewhat under-valued Champagne vintage and it comes as not great surprise to me that this is showing really well now, its inherent complexity enhanced by the efforts of man and the passage of time.
(Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer)