2007 Hautes Côtes de Beaune Sous Eguison Domaine Jean-Noël Gagnard

Since 1989 Caroline l’Estimé has been in charge of Domaine Jean-Noël Gagnard in their small cellar in Chassagne Montrachet. Caroline has fine-tuned the holdings, increasing the number of white wine cuvées since her father’s time by separating out each different vineyard. She has also planted new sites in the Hautes-Côtes-de Beaune, including the very promising Les Eguisons (white) and Clos Bortier (red).

The name "Sous Éguison" refers to the cliff above the vineyard which offers valuable protection from the north winds. It is located in the commune of La Rochepot on an embankment overlooking the western part of the Saint-Aubin appellation. Caroline barrel ferments all her whites before ageing the grander appellations for up to 18 months in oak casks.

This Hautes Côtes Les Eguisons however is bottled earlier, before the next harvest, so as to maintain its vivacious fresh fruit character. For this wine Caroline uses stelvin screwcap closures, a rarity in Burgundy.

This is a lovely, fresh, medium-bodied white Burgundy wine to be enjoyed young.

The screwcap has done its job in preserving freshness in the aromas of apple and a touch of flinty, stony minerality. There is a creaminess too. On the palate it is a stony, apple and lemon freshness that powers this wine, with richness only apparent in the broadening finish as a touch of nutty, creamy weight comes through. Natural concentration and focus.
The Wine Gang, www.thewinegang.com, July 2011