2007 Bourgogne Passetoutgrain, L'Exception, Dme Michel Lafarge

Henri Lafarge started domaine bottling in the 1930’s with Volnay Clos des Chenes and a cuvée of Passetoutgrains, which is a mix of gamay and pinot noir from vineyards planted the ‘wrong side’ of the main road. Those same vines are still producing today and are used for a bottling known as L’Exception. Though Passetoutgrains is usually expected to be for early drinking, this cuvée always needs a year or two to come round. Ancient vines, picked late (for the vintage) have resulted in  fabulous Passetoutgrains, glowing purple in colour, full of black fruits with peppery overtones and not too much acidity.