1995 Vouvray Le Mont Sec, Gaston Huët

Bizarre though it may sound, the initial whiff of this rare beauty spirited me to Epernay, to the cellars of Alfred Gratien in fact, to moment when they popped a bottle of their 1998 vintage, aged “sur-lattes” on their corks, not on bottle caps…that distinct smell of wild mushrooms, of cellar mould...yet one taste and I was back on the white tuffeau (a clue perhaps?) plateau of Vouvray, overlooking Tours. It's rich, quivering pure, full bodied, minerally pure as only Le Mont can be, and dry to taste (in the 10/15 grams residual sugar sense!). A joy. Lap it up with some creamy chicken, and porcini, why not!
(David Berry Green, BBR Buyer)