2004 Berrys' Own Selection Late Bottled Vintage Port, Quinta do Noval
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This is a traditional LBV, an important and oft-overlooked distinction; it is bottled a little later than more commercial LBV wines and, more importantly, is bottled unfiltered and so may throw a sediment,in homage no doubt to its illustrious vintage cousins. The 2004 LBV is dark, with deep black fruits on the nose, complemented by hints of sousbois and licorice; the palate is dense, pleasingly sweet and extremely long. The tannins are finely grained and beautifully integrated. The ensemble is very complete and extremely satisfying.
The ownership of AXA, contrary to initial fears, has helped to return Noval to the very top echelons of Port production. The usual ingredients of inspired leadership (courtesy of Christian Seely), generous investment and very fine raw materials have all played their part. Beyond the celebrated single vineyard, and its legendary Noval Nacional ( the 1931 is especially good I gather), the Bodega is particularly praised for its Late Bottled Vintage and Aged Tawny wines, both, not entirely coincidentally, bottled for Berry Bros under our own label (the 20 Year Old Tawny is known as William Pickering).
(Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer)
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