2008 Ch. Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan

Coming joint second in our list of Left Bank First Growths in 2008 (along with Mouton, with Ch. Latour in the lead) Ch. Haut-Brion seriously impressed us this vintage. With a nose of dark, brambly spice this was evidently restrained but still had layer upon layer of complex fruit character. The tannins were assertive but coated in a fantastic ball of dark fruit that suggests they will mellow wonderfully with time. Only 35% of the total production went into the Grand Vin this year and with only 7,000 cases made, it is the smallest production since 1992. This is a rarity: buy up while you can.

Really powerful dark purple colour. Minerals and lightness of touch on the nose. The most solid red from this stable but a little muted at this stage. Very firm, even slightly austere Cabernet tannins and pretty drying on the finish. Far from opulent. Needs, like La Mission, to put on a bit of flesh. Medium persistence. Impressive purity of fruit.
(Jancis Robinson MW - jancisrobinson.com - Apr 09)