2000 Pol Roger, Brut

2000 in Champagne was not an apotheosis of chronological eptitude, and, to be fair the Champenois have not tried to sell it thus, despite the obvious potential of the hallowed Millennium Vintage…. 2002, 1996 and it is becoming increasingly clear, 1998 are all superior. Were it not for intemperate and isolated hail storms in June and July however, 2000 would probably have joined the top table, and indeed the results, in the right hands, can be very good indeed. Dominique Petit, recruited from Krug, already has an impressive 1999 under his belt and with 2000 he raises his game once again. His are clearly the right hands.

The Pol Roger 2000 is one of the best I have tasted; it is made, as usual from 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay, sourced from a tapestry of well-selected Grand and Premier Cru villages across the region. After a generous seven years on its lees, the aromas of brioche, vanillin and white flowers are immediately powerful and seductive. The mousse is fine and the texture has all the breeding that one has come to expect from Pol Roger, probably more silk than velvet at the moment. Yellow fruits and gentle spice caress the palate, with honey, minerals and white flowers in support, and a real purity on the finish. The wine is clearly generous in youth, but sufficiently measured not to over-indulge too soon…..indeed it is showing all the signs of heralding an even greater age to the already illustrious house of Pol Roger.
(Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer)