1999 Pol Roger, Sir Winston Churchill
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A serendipitous luncheon with his soon-to-be muse Odette Pol Roger, proved to
be the start of a very happy relationship between Churchill and the famous
Champagne House, a relationship now in its twelfth vinous commemoration with
the launch of the 1999 Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill, a wine made only in
very special years. Challenging is perhaps an equally appropriate epithet for
1999, some untimely rain in September taking the edge off what hitherto looked
set to be an excellent vintage, which has had to settle for recognition as
merely a very good one. Very good indeed, in point of fact for the Pinot Noir,
which dominates this blend, outweighing the Chardonnay by a factor of three to
one.
1999 was the first vintage vinified by Dominique Petit, formerly of Krug, and perhaps it is not entirely whimsical to detect a trace of the Krug power and concentration here. But above and beyond that of course is the supreme elegance and harmony for which Pol Roger is famous, the wine demonstrating an almost baletic elegance on the tongue to belie its ten years of cellaring.
The mousse is generous and the fruit is both pure and powerful, backed up by a subtle minerality and gentle hints of ginger and spice. A long finish presages ageing potential until 2018. All in all a very worthy wine to celebrate the 150th anniversary of this great House.
(Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer)
1999 was the first vintage vinified by Dominique Petit, formerly of Krug, and perhaps it is not entirely whimsical to detect a trace of the Krug power and concentration here. But above and beyond that of course is the supreme elegance and harmony for which Pol Roger is famous, the wine demonstrating an almost baletic elegance on the tongue to belie its ten years of cellaring.
The mousse is generous and the fruit is both pure and powerful, backed up by a subtle minerality and gentle hints of ginger and spice. A long finish presages ageing potential until 2018. All in all a very worthy wine to celebrate the 150th anniversary of this great House.
(Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer)
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This was made in the 150th anniversary of Pol Roger and represents a fine
celebration. Very firm and dense, probably best kept for a few months (I tasted
it on release in the UK). That said, the haunting nose filled the room as soon
as the cork was popped. Solid food wine. I honestly think it would be wasted
poured at a busy reception; it needs some contemplation. Still quite chewy on
the finish. Very persistent. All Grand Cru vineyards that were under vine
during Winnie's lifetime. Very much Pinot-dominant. Supposedly only 1,200
bottles made. Almost a champagne to have with a cigar, appropriately enough.
This was the first vintage of their de luxe champagne made by the new team at
Pol Roger.
(Jancis Robinson MW, jancisrobinson.com - Feb 2010)
(Jancis Robinson MW, jancisrobinson.com - Feb 2010)
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