2007 La Devèze Blanc VV, Vin de Pays des Pyrénées Orientales, Mas de Devèze

Olivier Bernstein’s white Roussillon is a collaboration of the two grape varieties which seldom perform as well, either separately or in tandem, in any other part of France. Grenache Gris and Maccabeu in equal measure, have been vinified separately then aged for twelve months in one year-old barriques. The wine fascinates with its rich, slightly oily character, redeemed or rather enhanced by a clean grapefruit finish. The palate is complex with white tobacco, crushed sate and grilled almond all evidenced, with white peach and even a hint of pineapple espied in the wings. A rich and food friendly example, this would work with monk-fish, hake or turbot amongst others and might be a fun to try with goat’s cheese.
(Simon Field MW, BBR Buyer)