2009 Crozes-Hermitage, Les Trois Chênes, Domaine Emmanuel Darnaud

The interplay of the three eponymous types of oak used here gets steadily more accomplished. The result is terrific with the tannins now silkier and less intrusive than before, and the weight of black fruit perfectly poised. The classic Crozes tapenade note is present but not overbearing, and the finish is sweetly satisfying.