Critics reviews
Walter Speller, Jancis Robinson, jancisrobinson.com, 31 Oct 2012.
About this WINE
Franz Gojer, Alto Adige
The Gojer family have been farming their land since the 1830, although the property dates back to the 14th century. Located just behind the Alto Adige town of Bolzano, at the confluence of the rivers Adige & Isarco, their 5 ha, 3rd generation wine estate sits at the heart of the Santa Maddalena region.
This DOC wine region is famous for its red porphyry acidic soils that are nutrient poor and heat up quickly, especially in the closed shell shaped landscape.
Schiava or (locally) Vernatsch is the local grape that thrives in this terroir, trellised high in a pergola system (to maintain freshness). The grape produces pale, soft, perfumed, juicy red fruited, fresh but low tannin wines that are an easy accompaniment to all but the heartiest dishes. The market for Schiava (and for Alto Adige generally) was until the 1980s mainly in bulk wine sold for bottling in Germany and Austria (its former owners).
A Schiava scandal stopped this market in its tracks, forcing many like the Gojers to begin bottling for quality; in their case it was in 1999. Son Florian has now joined the business. While Schiava is what the family are best known for, they also make a spicy Lagrein and are looking to produce a white. Word has it that Californian wine mogul Jim Clendenen of Au Bon Climat is an admirer of their wines
Kerner
Kerner is an aromatic white wine grape variety, prized for its hardness and ease of ripenning. It was developped as a crossing of Trollinger (an Italian red variety also known as Schiava grossa or Vernatsch) and Riesling with the aim to replace the underperforming Silvaner in Germany.
Kerner is most commonly planted in the German regions of Palatinate, Rheinhessen, Mosel, and Württemberg, but it is also grown in Austria (Styria), Switzerland and the Italian province of South Tyrol.
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Description
2011 was Gojer’s debut vintage of this wine, which is made from young vines of the Kerner variety (a white Riesling and red Trollinger cross). Grown at 600 metres above sea level, it has crunchy, fresh and hay-like peach stone notes on the nose, while the palate possesses a distinctly limy character with pulpy flesh.
(David Berry Green)
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