2008 Valpolicella Classico Superiore, 'I Cantoni' Novaia, Marano, Veneto
Critics reviews
Walter Speller, Jancis Robinson, jancisrobinson.com, 31 Oct 2012.
About this WINE
Novaia, Veneto
The Novaia wine estate is located in the Classico village of Marano di Valpolicella. Marcello Vaona is the latest generation to tend the vines, alongside father Gianpaolo & zio Cesare. With a new cantina under construction above the village, one senses that Marcello is determined to take the estate to greater heights, having joined in 2000.
The family have 7 hectares of terraced pergola and guyot vines, lying at between 300 and 400 metres above sea level on the calcareous ‘pietra di Lessinia’ stone soils mixed with volcanic elements.
Novaia makes a full range of minerally Valpolicella Classico wines: Valpolicella (crunchy, stainless-steel), Ripasso (stainless-steel and barriques), Superiore ‘I Cantoni’ (single vineyard, barriques), Amarone (two years of barrqiues), Amarone Riserva ‘Le Balze’ (single vineyard, only exceptional years, three years of barriques), Recioto ‘Le Novaje’ (old single vineyard, one year of barriques).
Corvina, Corvinone blend
Corvina is widely grown on the Veneto shore of Lake Garda and the hills of Valpolicella to the north and north-east of Verona. Sometimes known as Corvina Veronese, it is blended with Rondinella and Molinara to produce Valpolicella and Bardolino. It can be a tricky grape to cultivate, as it ripens late and is prone to rot if affected by rains at harvest time. It is a high-yielding grape and quality is very dependent on keeping yields low.
Corvina-based red wines can range in style from a light, cherryish red to the rich, port-like Recioto and Amarone Valpolicellas. Most Valpolicella from the plains is pale and insipid, and bears little comparison with Valpolicella Classico from the hills. Some producers such as Allegrini are now producing very high quality 100% Corvina wines.
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Description
2008 was a cool and fresh vintage, one that rained in the Veneto on and off between May and August, which provided a much crunchier feel to Marcello’s wines than the warm 2007s. This wine is from a single-vineyard site at 350 metres above sea level just outside the village of Marano di Valpolicella and the vines are predominantly trained higher in the pergola system. This gives them vibrancy and the fruit of which is partially dried for a month before vinifying in steel and French barriques. This is an intense, poised and elegant wine that is rich in minerals but light in alcohol.
(David Berry Green)
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