Critics reviews
Jancis Robinson - jancisrobinson.com - April 2013
About this WINE
Champagne Janisson Baradon
The latest addition to our artisan champagne offering is Janisson-Baradon, a small grower from the Montagne de Reims established in 1922 by George Baradon (a remueur) and his son-in-law (a cooper).
Five generations later, and now directed by Richard Janisson, and his sons Maxence (principal winemaker) and Cyril Janisson, they have 9ha of vineyards which encircle Epernay (Champagne’s capital) to the west, in the Massif St. Thierry, and with the remainder in Chouilly (this latter forming the base for a Grand Cru Chardonnay which they produce).
For several years they have been practising lutte raisonnée, basically using the bare minimum of chemicals in their vineyards and grassing over between vine rows, for example, to maintain soil integrity as much as possible, a practise that has becoming increasingly common in Champagne.
Vinification is a mix of steel and wood with malolactic fermentation for the non-vintage cuvées and 100% wood (old Burgundy barrels, 3-18 years old) with no malolactic performed for the vintages. They are also experimenting with cement egg fermentation, of which they have two.
All the wines are characterised by long lees ageing and 6 months minimum resting period between disgorgement and release. The vintage cuvées are striking in their presentation as they don’t have printed labels, rather, the cuvée name is stencilled in white (actually, it looks like it’s been Tippex-ed!) on the dark bottle.
We have taken on two cuvées, the non-vintage Non-Dosé and the vintage Chemin des Conges.
Champagne blend
Which grapes are included in the blend, and their proportion, is one of the key factors determining the style of most Champagnes. Three grapes are used - Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier.
26% of vineyards in Champagne are planted with Chardonnay and it performs best on the Côtes des Blancs and on the chalk slopes south of Epernay. It is relatively simple to grow, although it buds early and thus is susceptible to spring frosts. It produces lighter, fresher wines than those from Burgundy and gives finesse, fruit and elegance to the final blend. It is the sole grape in Blancs de Blancs, which are some of the richest long-lived Champagnes produced.
Pinot Noir accounts for nearly 40% of the plantings in Champagne and lies at the heart of most blends - it gives Champagne its body, structure, strength and grip. It is planted across Champagne and particularly so in the southern Aube district.
The final component is Pinot Meunier and this constitutes nearly 35% of the plantings. Its durability and resistance to spring frosts make the Marne Valley, a notorious frost pocket, its natural home. It ripens well in poor years and produces a soft, fruity style of wine that is ideal for blending with the more assertive flavours of Pinot Noir. Producers allege that Pinot Meunier lacks ageing potential, but this does not deter Krug from including around 15% of it in their final blends.
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Description
A non-dosé champagne based on the 2007 vintage with 30% reserves from 2006 fermented in oak (5-15 year old Burgundy barrels, malolactic and disgorged in 2012) and a 50:50 Pinot Noir and Chardonnay blend. Subtle gold colour, the nose is quite expressive for a zero-dosage champagne, with crisp citrus but also fuller red fruits too. The palate has a similar agrumic quality with slightly bitter grapefruit, lime and also redcurrant, but with some weight too, a saline twist and dry finish that is just crying out for fruits de mer.
Edwin Dublin - BBR Champagne Specialist
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