About this WINE
Cascina Fontana
Sixth-generation Mario Fontana is among Barolo’s best-loved producers. His wines are undeniably Burgundian in style; his combination of artisanal purity and finesse is as evident in his Dolcetto as his Barolo. Mario follows organic methods but doesn’t seek certification; his philosophy is individual, guided by genuine skills learnt from his father, and his father before him. While many can be blindsided by stoic traditions, Mario is free-minded. His wines are timeless examples of great Barolo, positively charged and yet cutting edge.
From vineyard practices to vinification, Mario keeps his options open at every step. His son Valdo has recently joined him in the cantina, and one can feel the flow of energy and passion ebbing through this generational transition. Although his vineyards and cantina are spread through the region, Fontana’s greatest achievements are rooted in their ancestral hometown of Castiglione Falletto.
Dolcetto
A native black grape variety of Northern Italy grown almost exclusively in the provinces of Cuneo and Alessandria in Piedmont. It is relatively easy to cultivate, although it is susceptible to fungal diseases. It ripens before Barbera and Nebbiolo and is often grown in high north-facing sites which would be unsuitable for Nebbiolo.
The finest Dolcetto wines come from grapes grown on soils rich with white marls, especially those found on the right bank of the River Tauro. The wines generally are low in tannins and acidity and are usually fruity and fragrant, often with hints of almonds. Most Dolcettos should be drunk within a year or two of the vintage, but the wines from the best producers can last for 5 years and sometimes longer.
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Description
A blend of languid La Morra fruit and crunchier fruit coming from Sinio (next door to Serralunga), Mario has conjured up a deliciously fruity, and heavenly pure Dolcetto that's freshly redolent of spring violets! Even the colour has a violet glow about it, the early harvest playing into the hands of the early-ripening varieties such as Dolcetto and Barbera. It's light, agile, delightfully fruity, modestly low in alcohol; served cellar cool it reminds me of a Fleurie on ice! Love it. Great at spring lunches, picnics, you name it; a versatile friend! Drinking now.
David Berry Green
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