2008 Vieilles Vignes Blanc, Domaine Gauby

Domaine Gauby

The modern era for this excellent Côtes du Rousillon estate dates from 1985 when the energetic Gérard Gauby took over the family estate. Previously the wines were sold in bulk to the local co-operative, but Gérard took the brave decision to go it alone.

The domaine is situated in the village of Calce, in the Vin-de-Pays appellation of Coteaux des Fenouilledes. As the name of the village suggests, the soils in this area are predominantly chalky and are suitable for both red and white wines.

A number of grape varieties are planted at the domaine, the reds include Grenache, Mourvedre, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Carignan, the whites are made from Marsanne, Grenache Blanc, Viognier and, unusually for this area, Chenin Blanc.

The wines are elegant and modern with great balance and concentration.

White Rhône Blend

With the exception of the wines from Condrieu and Château-Grillet virtually all Rhône Valley whites are made from blends.

In the north, the white wines of Hermitage, Crozes-Hermitage, St-Joseph, and St-Péray are produced from blends of Marsanne and Roussanne. Generally Marsanne is the dominant partner and it lends colour, body and weight to the blend, as well as richly scented fruit. Roussanne, a notoriously low yielder and pernickety to grow, produces intensely aromatic wines which contribute bouquet, delicacy and finesse to the blend.

Until about 15 years ago there was very little interest in southern Rhône whites as it was widely believed that the combination of dull non aromatic grapes and the baking summer heat meant quality wine production was nigh impossible. Since then the quality has improved markedly through the introduction of cool fermentation techniques and increased plantings of northern Rhône white grapes.

The base of many blends is still Grenache Blanc, a widely planted variety producing fresh wines with apple-like fruits, often with hints of aniseed. Ugni Blanc is still found in many blends, as is Clairette though their general lack of character and definition has led to a reduction in plantings. The future for southern Rhône whites appears to lie with Roussanne, Marsanne, and, increasingly, Viognier.