2005 Barolo Rocche Rivera, Luigi Oddero, Castiglione Falletto, Piedmont
About this WINE
Figli Luigi Oddero
One of the headline names of the region, the Oddero family has been producing wines from impressive vineyard holdings around Piedmont since 1878. Brothers Giacomo and Luigi Oddero grew the winery’s reputation as one of the Langhe’s most esteemed cantinas, amicably splitting the estate in 2006. Luigi passed away in 2009, having retained 32hc and many of the best vineyards, and the cantina is now run by his widow and children. Francesco Versio is the head winemaker here; hugely respected, he learnt his craft at Bruno Giacosa under Dante Scaglione before joining Figli Luigi Oddero in 2017.
Now, there is new focus and a capable team in place. Francesco sees great opportunity here and maintains the ethos of this historical winemaking family, making traditional expressions with impressive technical judgement. The resulting wines are elegant and fine, with a vivid sense of origin.
Nebbiolo
Nebbiolo is the grape behind the Barolo and Barbaresco wines and is hardly ever seen outside the confines of Piedmont. It takes its name from "nebbia" which is Italian for fog, a frequent phenomenon in the region.
A notoriously pernickety grape, it requires sheltered south-facing sites and performs best on the well-drained calcareous marls to the north and south of Alba in the DOCG zones of Barbaresco and Barolo.
Langhe Nebbiolo is effectively the ‘second wine’ of Piedmont’s great Barolo & Barbarescos. This DOC is the only way Langhe producers can declassify their Barolo or Barbaresco fruit or wines to make an early-drinking style. Unlike Nebbiolo d’Alba, Langhe Nebbiolo can be cut with 15% other red indigenous varieties, such as Barbera or Dolcetto.
Nebbiolo flowers early and ripens late, so a long hang time, producing high levels of sugar, acidity and tannins; the challenge being to harvest the fruit with these three elements ripe and in balance. The best Barolos and Barbarescos are perfumed with aromas of tar, rose, mint, chocolate, liquorice and truffles. They age brilliantly and the very best need ten years to show at their best.
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Description
In keeping with the understated 2005 vintage, Luigi Oddero's Rocche dei Rivera Barolo, located in the highest, ESE facing vineyard of Castiglione Falletto is fabulously trim, with delicate, red berry and tea scented fruit to the fore.
I love its candid purity, the way in which Nebbiolo from this 'sacred' Rocche dei Rivera site, part of the larger Scarrone vineyard, seems to glide effortlessly, morning fresh, without airs or graces; pure elegance.On the other side of the (Castiglione Falletto) ridge, Monprivato does so with more celebrity. It's time Rocche dei Rivera was recognised for its nobility. Best decanted at least an hour prior to drinking.
David Berry Green
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