Critics reviews
Rose Murray Brown - The Scotsman
About this WINE
Cascina Fontana
Sixth-generation Mario Fontana is among Barolo’s best-loved producers. His wines are undeniably Burgundian in style; his combination of artisanal purity and finesse is as evident in his Dolcetto as his Barolo. Mario follows organic methods but doesn’t seek certification; his philosophy is individual, guided by genuine skills learnt from his father, and his father before him. While many can be blindsided by stoic traditions, Mario is free-minded. His wines are timeless examples of great Barolo, positively charged and yet cutting edge.
From vineyard practices to vinification, Mario keeps his options open at every step. His son Valdo has recently joined him in the cantina, and one can feel the flow of energy and passion ebbing through this generational transition. Although his vineyards and cantina are spread through the region, Fontana’s greatest achievements are rooted in their ancestral hometown of Castiglione Falletto.
Barbera
Barbera is planted extensively in Piedmont and south-west Lombardy and accounts for over 50% of the wine produced in the region. The majority is sold simply as Barbera del Piemonte, but the best wines are the DOCs, Barbera d'Alba and Barbera d'Asti. It ripens late (after Dolcetto but before Nebbiolo).
The wines are usually ruby red in colour with notably low levels of tannins. They have a pronounced acidity that can be accentuated by overproduction. Barbera wines range from light, tart mouthwashers through to powerful, intensely flavoured wines that require extended cellaring.
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Description
Vintage 2011, with its hot summer & fresh nights, culminating in an early harvest, was ideal for Piedmont's Barbera grape. The result is perfectly demonstrated by this suave, rich spanish plum (skin) beauty, vinified from grapes 60% from Mario's old vine site behind Sinio castello, & 40% from the classy vineyards of Castiglione Falletto.
Barbera d'Alba producers are alllowed to add up 15% Nebbiolo to their wine, but Mario prefers the purer, transparent, honesty of 100% Barbera. You can virtually see straight through it, it's so pure. Aged for a few months in used french barriques, it's ready to go now but will be delicious for a decade or so. Perfect also with lasagna.
David Berry Green
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