Critics reviews
Monica Larner - Wine Advocate - Issue#207 Jun 2013
About this WINE
Fratelli Alessandria
A moment’s reflection is required before understanding the wines of Fratelli Alessandria: all the estate’s vines (except their cru Gramolere) are in the commune of Verduno. Not usually bracketed with familiar and renowned communes, the village sits on the north-eastern border of the region. It’s almost more of an extension of neighbouring Roero, with sandier soils and a moderating influence from the Tanaro river. All this adds up to a lighter, more delicate and perfumed style of Barolo – of which Fratelli Alessandria are brilliant exponents.
Today, Vittore Alessandria runs the traditional cellar, while his brother Ale tends 15 hectares of vineyards. Their first vintage was in 1978, and Fratelli Alessandria was the first producer to put Monvigliero on a label. 2001 saw the first Gramolere and 1997 was their first vintage of San Lorenzo, which is only produced in their best vintages – of course, there is a 2019!
Nebbiolo
Nebbiolo is the grape behind the Barolo and Barbaresco wines and is hardly ever seen outside the confines of Piedmont. It takes its name from "nebbia" which is Italian for fog, a frequent phenomenon in the region.
A notoriously pernickety grape, it requires sheltered south-facing sites and performs best on the well-drained calcareous marls to the north and south of Alba in the DOCG zones of Barbaresco and Barolo.
Langhe Nebbiolo is effectively the ‘second wine’ of Piedmont’s great Barolo & Barbarescos. This DOC is the only way Langhe producers can declassify their Barolo or Barbaresco fruit or wines to make an early-drinking style. Unlike Nebbiolo d’Alba, Langhe Nebbiolo can be cut with 15% other red indigenous varieties, such as Barbera or Dolcetto.
Nebbiolo flowers early and ripens late, so a long hang time, producing high levels of sugar, acidity and tannins; the challenge being to harvest the fruit with these three elements ripe and in balance. The best Barolos and Barbarescos are perfumed with aromas of tar, rose, mint, chocolate, liquorice and truffles. They age brilliantly and the very best need ten years to show at their best.
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Description
Reflecting the sunny 2009 vintage, this is a traditional Barolo, the sum of the parts, blending two vineyards, Rocche dell'Olmo and Campasso, both in the commune of Verduno. Rocche dell'olmo providing the sandy suave character; Campasso the minerally spine.
The result, aged only in large botte/barrels, is a heavenly nose of violets, starw and raspberries, grounded by tea leaves. It's a charming, full wine that flows gently on and on. Fabulous with roast even now, given time in a decanter but will improve in magnum.
David Berry Green
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