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2012 Chablis, Les Clos, Grand Cru, Domaine Pinson Frères
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Scores and Reviews
Louis Pinson himself retired in 1983 having made some fabulous old style Chablis wines. His great grand-daughter, Charlène, along with her father, Laurent and her uncle Christophe have now taken over. There is a Rue Pinson in Chablis, dating back to an earlier generation when three Pinson brothers lived in identical houses in the street.
Everything is hand-harvested, with sorting of the grapes both in the vineyard and at the winery. Fermentation is mostly in stainless steel using selected yeasts, then the wines are transferred to barrel for the maturation process. The barrels for Les Clos are one to two years old, for the premiers crus three to six years. The straight Chablis stays in stainless steel.
Having such a large holding of Mont de Milieu, the Pinsons organised a swap of half a hectare with some Fourchaume from Nathalie & Gilles Fèvre, so that each domaine would have an extra appellation. Their holdings comprise 2.20ha Chablis , 0.68ha Chablis 1er Cru Forêt, 0.50ha Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume, 4.76ha Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu, 1.05ha Chablis 1er Cru Montmains , 0.34ha Chablis 1er Cru, 0.50ha Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons and 2.57ha Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos.
Chardonnay is the "Big Daddy" of white wine grapes and one of the most widely planted in the world. It is suited to a wide variety of soils, though it excels in soils with a high limestone content as found in Champagne, Chablis, and the Côte D`Or.
Burgundy is Chardonnay's spiritual home and the best White Burgundies are dry, rich, honeyed wines with marvellous poise, elegance and balance. They are unquestionably the finest dry white wines in the world. Chardonnay plays a crucial role in the Champagne blend, providing structure and finesse, and is the sole grape in Blanc de Blancs.
It is quantitatively important in California and Australia, is widely planted in Chile and South Africa, and is the second most widely planted grape in New Zealand. In warm climates Chardonnay has a tendency to develop very high sugar levels during the final stages of ripening and this can occur at the expense of acidity. Late picking is a common problem and can result in blowsy and flabby wines that lack structure and definition.
Recently in the New World, we have seen a move towards more elegant, better- balanced and less oak-driven Chardonnays, and this is to be welcomed.
These are the biggest, richest and most complex Chablis, which cover a total of 100 hectares – just two percent of the appellation. At their best, they can match the quality of a Grand Cru Chardonnay from the Côte d’Or, yet often at half the price.
They may lack their southern neighbour’s opulence, but they share the latter’s intensity and have a nervy minerality that set them apart. Inexpressive in youth, they should ideally be aged for 10 years, and can mature for up to 30 years. Styles vary according to producer, with some maturing and fermenting in stainless steel while others use barrels, sometimes even new oak.
All seven Grands Crus are grouped together on a single south-west-facing hill just north of the town. La Moutonne is an unofficial eighth Grand Cru straddling Les Preuses and Vaudésir, and is allowed to use the name on its label. The rich, fine Les Clos and the intense, spicy Vaudésir are generally considered to be the best, and are certainly the most full-bodied.
The delicate Blanchots and the racy Grenouilles are the most aromatic, while Les Preuses is full, complex and the least minerally. Valmur is fragrant, rich and smooth while La Moutonne is elegant and incredibly expressive. The vibrant Bougros tends to be the junior member of the group, but in the right hands can also be very good.
Recommended producers: Billaud-Simon, Duplessis, J.-P. & Benoit Droin.