Grand Cru, Grand in. Lacy magic from the confident, experienced, but never complacent winemaker, Thierry Brouin. Bright and energetic, this sophisticated red displays a wealth of soft strawberry fruit that, along with a dash of pepper, suffuses the bouquet. It then finishes on a richly satisfying palate of ripe, soft and rounded red fruit.
The Clos des Lambrays in Morey St Denis has been producing fine wine since at least 1363, its quality being recognised by promotion to Grand Cru status in 1981. The estate was purchased in 1996 by the Freund family and since then dramatic changes have taken place, leading to an upsurge in quality. The domaine owns 8.66ha of Clos des Lambrays, making it almost a monopoly – there is one other producer with a few rows of vines at the bottom.
Winemaker Thierry Brouin has been in charge since 1979. The vineyards are run on more or less organic lines, with no chemical anti-rot sprays, and ploughing of the soil by horse. In the cellar, he likes to use the majority of the stems, favours punching down over pumping over, and prefers to restrain the amount of new oak – around 50% for the grand cru. Domaine des Lambrays produces wines which possess balance, power and finesse and which fully live up to their Grand Cru status.
Domaine des Lambrays
Lifted, ripe strawberry and redcurrant on the nose, alongside a lack of vanillin spice from the oak. The palate is multi-layered with fine tannins and a core of intense fruit. The finish goes on and on in this very fine effort. A little patience will be required but will be well worth the wait!
Fergus Stewart, BBR Fine WineDomaine des Lambrays
There is a combined hint of a floral and vegetal component, which is probably a residual effect of the significant percentage of whole cluster in the vinification. Otherwise the nose is composed of pure and elegant red berry fruit aromas liberally laced with stone and earth notes that can also be found on the richer and bigger flavors though it would be fair to say that the '07 Lambrays is a wine of finesse and delicacy rather than concentration and power. In sum, this is pretty rather than deep and while I doubt that it will ever be a charmer, it should offer very good to excellent quality in time.
Allen Meadows, Burghound