2012 Pommard, Les Croix Noires, 1er Cru, Domaine Louis Boillot & Fils, Burgundy

2012 Pommard, Les Croix Noires, 1er Cru, Domaine Louis Boillot & Fils, Burgundy

Product: 20128023487
 
2012 Pommard, Les Croix Noires, 1er Cru, Domaine Louis Boillot & Fils, Burgundy

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Description

Louis Boillot, husband of Ghislaine Barthod, didn't mince any words when he flatly said "I adore the 2012 vintage as it combines elegance and finesse with excellent phenolic maturity."

"While the crop was tiny we had zero rot so the harvest was as clean as could be. The main culprit of the miniscule yields in the Côte de Nuits was the poor flowering, which was also the case in the Côte de Beaune but to this problem you have to add a devastating hail storm or two. For example, in the Côte de Nuits my yields were mostly between 20 to 25 hl/ha, which isn't a lot but it's manageable."

"By contrast, in the Côte de Beaune they were between 10 and 15 hl/ha, which is problematic for lots of reasons, not the least of which is commercial but also from a vinification perspective."

"One of the interesting aspects of wine making is that it's constantly surprising you. Given the small crop and thick skins I thought that we were going to have another 2005 that produced concentrated and powerful wines but that is not at all what 2012 gave us. The fruit is dense but the mouth feel of the wines is refined and pure plus there is excellent terroir transparency. For me 2012 is a very special vintage."

I agree with Boillot's take of his 2012s in the Côte de Nuits as they really are terrific though I was less persuaded by the quality of his Côte de Beaune wines. It's possible that they will mature into beautiful wines as they certainly are dense but at this juncture some of them display slightly drying tannins that are almost certainly due to the latent effects of the hail.
Allen Meadows - burghound.com - issue 53- Jan 2014

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Critics reviews

Burghound89-92/100
Louis Boillot, husband of Ghislaine Barthod, didn't mince any words when he flatly said "I adore the 2012 vintage as it combines elegance and finesse with excellent phenolic maturity. While the crop was tiny we had zero rot so the harvest was as clean as could be. The main culprit of the miniscule yields in the Côte de Nuits was the poor flowering, which was also the case in the Côte de Beaune but to this problem you have to add a devastating hail storm or two. For example, in the Côte de Nuits my yields were mostly between 20 to 25 hl/ha, which isn't a lot but it's manageable. By contrast, in the Côte de Beaune they were between 10 and 15 hl/ha, which is problematic for lots of reasons, not the least of which is commercial but also from a vinification perspective. One of the interesting aspects of wine making is that it's constantly surprising you. Given the small crop and thick skins I thought that we were going to have another 2005 that produced concentrated and powerful wines but that is not at all what 2012 gave us. The fruit is dense but the mouth feel of the wines is refined and pure plus there is excellent terroir transparency. For me 2012 is a very special vintage." I agree with Boillot's take of his 2012s in the Côte de Nuits as they really are terrific though I was less persuaded by the quality of his Côte de Beaune wines. It's possible that they will mature into beautiful wines as they certainly are dense but at this juncture some of them display slightly drying tannins that are almost certainly due to the latent effects of the hail.

Allen Meadows - burghound.com - issue 53- Jan 2014 Read more

About this WINE

Louis Boillot

Louis Boillot

Louis shares his cellar with his other half, Ghislaine Barthod , under their home in Chambolle, overlooking Les Feusselottes. He is part of the Boillot family from Volnay, which explains the quantity of his vineyard holdings in the Côte de Beaune.

Since striking out on his own in 2003, he has been able to maximise the potential of his many disparate small parcels – he makes 16 wines from less than seven hectares – many of which are notable for the exceptional age of their vines.

He expanded into Moulin-à-Vent in ’13 and subsequently into Fleurie, fulfilling a long-held ambition. His and Ghislaine’s son Clément is now officially in charge, while Louis focusses on his viticulture. As yet, there are no discernible changes.

In the winery
“Non-intervention” is the word here, and Louis prefers to let his old vines speak for themselves. Everything is destalked, and the wines are bottled without fining or filtration.

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Pommard

Pommard

The most powerful red wines of the Côte de Beaune emanate from Pommard, where complex soils with a high proportion of iron-rich clay produce deep-coloured, relatively tannic wines. A Pommard that is ready to drink in its first few years is probably not going to be a great example of the appellation.

Two vineyards stand out: the lower part of Les Rugiens, which has been mooted for promotion to Grand Cru status, and the five-hectare, walled Clos des Epéneaux, monopoly of Comte Armand.
  • 212 hectares of village Pommard
  • 125 hectares of Premier Cru vineyards (28 in all). The finest vineyards include Les Rugiens, Les Epénots (including Clos des Epéneaux) and Pézérolles
  • Recommended producers: Comte Armandde Montille, de Courcel, J-M Boillot

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Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or.

Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.

Because of the thinness of the skins, Pinot Noir wines are lighter in colour, body and tannins. However the best wines have grip, complexity and an intensity of fruit seldom found in wine from other grapes. Young Pinot Noir can smell almost sweet, redolent with freshly crushed raspberries, cherries and redcurrants. When mature, the best wines develop a sensuous, silky mouth feel with the fruit flavours deepening and gamey "sous-bois" nuances emerging.

The best examples are still found in Burgundy, although Pinot Noir`s key role in Champagne should not be forgotten. It is grown throughout the world with notable success in the Carneros and Russian River Valley districts of California, and the Martinborough and Central Otago regions of New Zealand.

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