About this WINE
White Rhône Blend
With the exception of the wines from Condrieu and Château-Grillet virtually all Rhône Valley whites are made from blends.
In the north, the white wines of Hermitage, Crozes-Hermitage, St-Joseph, and St-Péray are produced from blends of Marsanne and Roussanne. Generally Marsanne is the dominant partner and it lends colour, body and weight to the blend, as well as richly scented fruit. Roussanne, a notoriously low yielder and pernickety to grow, produces intensely aromatic wines which contribute bouquet, delicacy and finesse to the blend.
Until about 15 years ago there was very little interest in southern Rhône whites as it was widely believed that the combination of dull non aromatic grapes and the baking summer heat meant quality wine production was nigh impossible. Since then the quality has improved markedly through the introduction of cool fermentation techniques and increased plantings of northern Rhône white grapes.
The base of many blends is still Grenache Blanc, a widely planted variety producing fresh wines with apple-like fruits, often with hints of aniseed. Ugni Blanc is still found in many blends, as is Clairette though their general lack of character and definition has led to a reduction in plantings. The future for southern Rhône whites appears to lie with Roussanne, Marsanne, and, increasingly, Viognier.
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Description
Christophe Delorme describes 2013 as “atypical”, citing parsimonious yields of eight hl/ha for the Grenache in his Châteauneuf vineyards and a reduction in volume of his Lirac of over 50 percent. Such things make cash flow hard to predict, let alone manage; the prospect inspires a Gallic shrug and the observation that quality must be maintained, even with volumes which are far from profitable. This, it seems, has been achieved.
His parting shot is to describe the wines as “rare – but great”.
A nose of stone fruit (peach and apricot), pear and violets is followed by a palate that contains all the hallmarks of premium quality white Rhône, namely an opulent and waxy texture, re-assuring weight and a long finish. This is lovely now but will be happy in the cellar for at least a couple of years.
A nose of stone-fruit (peach and apricot), pear and violets followed by a palate that contains all the hallmarks of premium quality white Rhône, namely an opulent and waxy texture, re-assuring weight and a long finish. This is lovely now but will be happy in the cellar for at least a couple of years-should you prove stoical in your patience.
Simon Field MW - Rhône Buyer
Christophe Delorme describes 2013 as ‘atypical’, citing parsimonious yields of eight hectolitres per hectare for the Grenache in his Châteauneuf vineyards and a reduction in volume of his Lirac of over 50 percent. Such things make cash flow hard to predict, let alone manage; the prospect inspires a Gallic shrug and the observation that quality must be maintained, even with volumes which are far from profitable. This, it seems, has been achieved. His parting shot is to describe the wines as ‘rare – but great’. A fabulous white, Mordorée’s 2013 Lirac La Reine des Bois Blanc checks in as a blend of just about every permitted white variety, including Grenache Blanc, Viognier, Roussanne, Marsanne, Picpoul and others. Aged all in stainless steel, it exhibits beautifully clean, mineral-laced notes of citrus rind, pear, honeysuckle and white flowers. This flows to a medium-bodied, refreshing, pure and elegant white that has integrated acidity, plenty of fruit and a classy finish. Drink it over the coming 2-4 years.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate Issue#216 (Part 2) Jan 2015
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