Critics reviews
As the idea of terroir – that a wine might reflect the precise spot where the grapes come from – took hold, so a number of small growers began to make their own wines. Today, these are among the most exciting in the region, and few are better than those from the brilliant Larmandier-Bernier, who created this fullthroated fizz from their own single vineyard.
David Williams - The Guardian - 22nd June 2014
About this WINE
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier
Pierre Larmandier’s reputation continues on its upwards trajectory and La Maison Larmandier Bernier is now perceived as one of the greatest addresses in Champagne.
The ingredients for this success are many and varied; biodynamic viticulture, wonderfully old vines, fantastic locations and aspects for the vines, and a non-intervention approach in the winery to mirror the respect for nature in the vineyards.
Nothing out of the ordinary on the face of it, but when all elements are joined together the results are little short of outstanding. The perfect expression of the purest Chardonnay.
Champagne blend
Which grapes are included in the blend, and their proportion, is one of the key factors determining the style of most Champagnes. Three grapes are used - Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier.
26% of vineyards in Champagne are planted with Chardonnay and it performs best on the Côtes des Blancs and on the chalk slopes south of Epernay. It is relatively simple to grow, although it buds early and thus is susceptible to spring frosts. It produces lighter, fresher wines than those from Burgundy and gives finesse, fruit and elegance to the final blend. It is the sole grape in Blancs de Blancs, which are some of the richest long-lived Champagnes produced.
Pinot Noir accounts for nearly 40% of the plantings in Champagne and lies at the heart of most blends - it gives Champagne its body, structure, strength and grip. It is planted across Champagne and particularly so in the southern Aube district.
The final component is Pinot Meunier and this constitutes nearly 35% of the plantings. Its durability and resistance to spring frosts make the Marne Valley, a notorious frost pocket, its natural home. It ripens well in poor years and produces a soft, fruity style of wine that is ideal for blending with the more assertive flavours of Pinot Noir. Producers allege that Pinot Meunier lacks ageing potential, but this does not deter Krug from including around 15% of it in their final blends.
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Description
With 2008 as its base year, this surely must be one of the best ever releases from the Terre de Vertus. 35-year-old Chardonnay vines are the source of a must which is vinified half in stainless steel and half in foudre. The very specific terroir, with its tertiary sands and clay over a soft cretaceous chalky sub-soil, has yielded a rich, powerful and nutty wine, its generosity and depth such that it’s very difficult to believe that there has been no dosage. Outstanding.
Simon Field MW, Champagne Buyer
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