About this WINE
Domaine Mas de Martin
One look at the eclectic labels of Mas de Martin will reveal that Christian Mocci is something of a one-off; there is perhaps something of the eponymous patriot, depicted with a Hogarthian swagger on this bottle, in his affable bearded demeanour.
Farming biodynamically on pure clay and limestone soils just south of the famous Pic St Loup enclave, M Mocci has built a reputation for age-worthy wines of real character.
The Roi Patriote is a Vin De Pays, its vines scenically located in the foothills of the Cevennes, and a blend of Merlot (34%), Cabernet Sauvignon (26%) , Cabernet Franc ( 23%) Grenache (4%), Syrah (10%), Tannat ( 4%). The aspirations are clear from the impressive blend, its Bordelais influence from the Cabernets and Merlot evidenced en bouche by the silkiness of the tannins and the purity of the black fruits.
Southern Rhône Blend
The vast majority of wines from the Southern Rhône are blends. There are 5 main black varieties, although others are used and the most famous wine of the region, Châteauneuf du Pape, can be made from as many as 13 different varieties. Grenache is the most important grape in the southern Rhône - it contributes alcohol, warmth and gentle juicy fruit and is an ideal base wine in the blend. Plantings of Syrah in the southern Rhône have risen dramatically in the last decade and it is an increasingly important component in blends. It rarely attains the heights that it does in the North but adds colour, backbone, tannins and soft ripe fruit to the blend.
The much-maligned Carignan has been on the retreat recently but is still included in many blends - the best old vines can add colour, body and spicy fruits. Cinsault is also backtracking but, if yields are restricted, can produce moderately well-coloured wines adding pleasant-light fruit to red and rosé blends. Finally, Mourvèdre, a grape from Bandol on the Mediterranean coast, has recently become an increasingly significant component of Southern Rhône blends - it often struggles to ripen fully but can add acidity, ripe spicy berry fruits and hints of tobacco to blends.
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Description
The innovative Christian Mocci, whose labels are one of the wonders of the vinous world, excels once again with his famous swaggering monarch, Hogarthian yet patriotic, Atlantic of outlook yet Mediterranean of provenance. The blend is dominated by Merlot (34%) and the Cabernets (Sauvignon is 26% and Franc is 22%) with the balance shared by Syrah, Grenache and Tannat. Not the usual fare from the hills behind Montpellier therefore, although one has only to think of Grange des Peres or Mas de Daumas Gassac, neither too far away, to realise this these sunny hillsides can be most accommodating with their f(l)avours.
Aged in one and two year old barrels, the 2012 has a striking nose of cassis, blackberry and mocha with hints of iodine and pencil shaving ; the palate is plump and indulges with ripe fruit without forsaking the disciplined cabernet imprimaturs of firm acidity and impressive grip. The king is generous and suitably regal, his wine a most satisfying expression of noblesse oblige!
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer
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