8-bt Mixed Case: Combottes & Clos de la Roche, Collection Bellenum

8-bt Mixed Case: Combottes & Clos de la Roche, Collection Bellenum

Product: 10008027111
 
8-bt Mixed Case: Combottes & Clos de la Roche, Collection Bellenum

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Description

This case comprises 1 bottle from each of two adjacent vineyards from the 2007, 2008, 2009 & 2010 vintages.
The grand cru Clos de la Roche from Morey St Denis, and the 1er cru – though some feel it should be grand cru also – vineyard of Aux Combottes in Gevrey-Chambertin. Adjacent, but quite different! You have the choice of trying them in pairs, or enjoying a vertical of first one vineyard, then the other.
Gevrey-Chambertin Aux Combottes
1 x 2007
1 x 2008
1 x 2009
1 x 2010
Combottes looks on the map as if it should be a grand cru: it is sandwiched between Clos de la Roche to the south and the Gevrey-Chambertin grands crus to the north. There is a theory that politics played a part, since at the time of classification all the owners of Combottes came from Morey-St-Denis, so nobody in Gevrey-Chambertin was interested in pleading the vineyard’s cause. Another explanation is that Combottes was restricted to premier cru status because it lies in a dip compared to its grand cru neighbours. Either way, Aux Combottes makes a deliciously vibrant Gevrey-Chambertin with depth of fruit and classical structure.

Clos de la Roche
1 x 2007
1 x 2008
1 x 2009
1 x 2010
Clos de la Roche is quintessential Morey, its slight aromatic wildness differentiating it from a top Chambolle-Musigny, and its tight linear structure ensuring longevity. Clos de la Roche, has sinews, structure and density. The weight of the fruit appears very much towards the back of the palate, and is exceptionally persistent.
Jeremy Seysses of Domaine Dujac adds the following details: Clos de la Roche makes a brawnier, more muscular wine. On the nose, recurrent aromas include musk, nutmeg, iron, graphite and darker fruit than in Clos St Denis. On the palate, the tannins are always firmer and grainier, linen to Clos St-Denis’ silk. Clos de la Roche possesses a firm mineral core that generates much of its intensity as well as an initial austerity in its youth.

Notes on the Vintages
2007: a vintage that is all about the fruit, easily accessible now but not destined for the long haul – though they may surprise us as the 2000s have done.
2008: fine-boned and elegant, the 2008s show an exquisite purity of pinot, initially backed by a vibrant acidity which is now blending into the fruit. Becoming good to drink.
2009: a fine sunny summ

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About this WINE

Collection Bellenum

Collection Bellenum

As well as running his own wine property Domaine de Bellene and negociant company Maison Roche de Bellene, the ever resourceful Nicolas Potel has made a speciality out of sourcing parcels of older Burgundy wines from capable producers who have squirrelled away various gems from their best vineyards. Nicolas has got to know almost everybody in Burgundy during his twenty-five years of making wine.

"..I've now had two chances to taste wines from this unique collection of wines that have moved only once in their lives, from the original cellar to Potels....I'd say they magnificently reflect the reality of Burgundy in that they are very varied, provide a thoroughly useful overview of how different vintages are developing, and include some completely stunning wines that are not Grands Crus, not even Premiers Crus but are simple village wines. A 1959 Meursault and 1999 Volnay spring particularly to mind. "
(Jancis Robinson - Financial Times - 19-May-2012)

For an independent view of these wines, please see reports by Jancis Robinson (membership required) and Bill Nanson.

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Gevrey-Chambertin

Gevrey-Chambertin

Gevrey-Chambertin is the largest wine-producing village in Burgundy’s Côte d'Or, with its vineyards spilling over into the next door commune of Brochon.

Located in the far north of the Côtes de Nuits above Morey-St Denis, classic Gevrey-Chambertin is typically deeper in colour, firmer in body and more tannic in structure than most red Burgundy. The best can develop into the richest, most complete and long-lived Pinot Noir in the world. This is largely thanks to the iron-rich clay soils, though much depends on whether the vineyard is located on either the steeper slopes (Evocelles, Clos St Jacques) or the flatter, richer soils (Clos Prieur, Combottes).

Whereas in the past there have been numerous underperformers in Gevrey-Chambertin exploiting the reputation of this famous village and its iconic Grands Crus, today there are many fine sources to choose from, and overall quality is higher than ever.

Gevrey-Chambertin’s greatest Grand Cru is named after the field of the monk Bertin (Champ de Bertin). In 1847, Gevrey appended the name of this illustrious vineyard, Chambertin, setting a trend for the other principle villages to follow. Le Chambertin may not be quite as sumptuous as Musigny or Richebourg, or as divinely elegant as La Tâche or Romanée-St Vivant, but it is matched only by the legendary Romanée-Conti for completeness and luscious intensity.

In all, Gevrey boasts an impressive nine Grands Crus, with the name of Chambertin retaining a regal omnipresence throughout its finest vineyard names. The other truly great Grand Cru is Chambertin-Clos de Bèze which has the right to sell its wines simply as ‘Chambertin’, and is the only wine allowed to put the Chambertin name before, rather than after, its own. Situated slightly further up the hill, the wines are fractionally less powerful yet full of sensual charm and finesse.

Quality-wise the next best are generally acknowledged to be Mazis-Chambertin and Latricières-Chambertin. The former is incredibly concentrated and very fine, but its structure is a little less firm than Le Chambertin. Latricières is less about power (although it can be explosively fruity) and more about an entrancing silkiness.

Situated slightly higher up the slope, Ruchottes-Chambertin is impressively rich, stylish and slightly angular. The tiny Griottes-Chambertin, which owes its name to the grill-pan shape of the vineyard rather than the wine’s griotte cherry aroma, is lower down the slope and boasts a velvety texture and rich fruit reminiscent of Chambertin itself. It is generally better than the lighter, although wonderfully fragrant Chapelle-Chambertin and Gevrey’s largest Grand Cru, the pure and seductive (if variable) Charmes-Chambertin.

Gevrey also has some outstanding Premier Crus on the south-east-facing slopes above the town. Les Cazetiers and especially Clos St Jacques produce some exceptional wines. Indeed Armand Rousseau, who pioneered domaine bottling here in the 1930s and is still one of the region’s very best producers, often sells his Clos St Jacques for more than several of his Grand Crus.

Drinking dates for these wines vary, but Grand Crus are generally best from at least 10 to 25 years, Premier Crus from eight to 20 years, and village wines from five to 12 years.

  • 315 hectares of village Gevrey Chambertin
  • 84 hectares of Premier Cru vineyards (20 in all). The foremost vineyards include Clos St Jacques, Lavaux St Jacques, Combottes, Corbeaux, Cherbaudes, Cazetiers.
  • 55 hectares of Grand Cru vineyards: Chambertin, Chambertin Clos de Bèze, Latricières-Chambertin, Ruchottes-Chambertin, Mazis-Chambertin, Charmes-Chambertin, Mazoyères-Chambertin, Chapelle-Chambertin, Griottes-Chambertin..
  • Recommended producers:  Bachelet, Dugat, Esmonin, Mortet, Rossignol Trapet, Rousseau, Serafin, Bernstein
  • Recommended restaurants : Chez Guy (good wine list), Rôtisserie du Chambertin (and Bistro)

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Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or.

Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.

Because of the thinness of the skins, Pinot Noir wines are lighter in colour, body and tannins. However the best wines have grip, complexity and an intensity of fruit seldom found in wine from other grapes. Young Pinot Noir can smell almost sweet, redolent with freshly crushed raspberries, cherries and redcurrants. When mature, the best wines develop a sensuous, silky mouth feel with the fruit flavours deepening and gamey "sous-bois" nuances emerging.

The best examples are still found in Burgundy, although Pinot Noir`s key role in Champagne should not be forgotten. It is grown throughout the world with notable success in the Carneros and Russian River Valley districts of California, and the Martinborough and Central Otago regions of New Zealand.

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