About this WINE
Manuel Marinacci, Piedmont
Manuel Marinacci’s artisanal cantina is hidden in the village of San Rocco Seno d’Elvio. The estate covers only four hectares, lying within the Rocche Massalupo vineyard on the western edge of the region. Since he began in 2004 and until the ’17 vintage, Manuel never referenced the vineyard on his label; today, with growing interest in these local identifiers, it now features.
The vineyard itself is of friable marl, with layered clay and limestone, but less sandstone than other sites. Manuel’s slopes are steep and south-facing but near the foot of the hill, always well ventilated by the breeze that scuds along the nearby stream. Winemaking is simple and unfussy: fermentation in cement or fibre glass, and two years’ ageing in large Slavonian botte. Manuel does like to give his wines an extra year in botte, so these are usually Riserva in stature, although not always declared as such. Only about 500 cases of Barbaresco are made each year.
Dolcetto
A native black grape variety of Northern Italy grown almost exclusively in the provinces of Cuneo and Alessandria in Piedmont. It is relatively easy to cultivate, although it is susceptible to fungal diseases. It ripens before Barbera and Nebbiolo and is often grown in high north-facing sites which would be unsuitable for Nebbiolo.
The finest Dolcetto wines come from grapes grown on soils rich with white marls, especially those found on the right bank of the River Tauro. The wines generally are low in tannins and acidity and are usually fruity and fragrant, often with hints of almonds. Most Dolcettos should be drunk within a year or two of the vintage, but the wines from the best producers can last for 5 years and sometimes longer.
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Description
Such a pretty, violet scented wine from this fresh vintage - a vintage that certainly seems to benefit an aromatic grape as Dolcetto. Manuel's prim example captures it all, thanks to well-positioned, well-ventilated (above the rio/stream Elvio), vineyards on the edge of the Madonna di Como zone, sought after for its Dolcetto. Vinified in cement only, at 12.5% abv, it's a great luncheon wine, dry, pulpy, crunchy charismatic - like its creator.
David Berry Green
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