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2012 Mestizaje Tinto, Bodega Mustiguillo, Valencia
One word summarises the Mustiguillo message and that word is Bobal, one of the greatest and most under-rated of Spanish grape varieties, and now on the cusp of a renaissance in the Mediterranean vineyards to mirror that of the Mencia varietal in Bierzo and other parts of North-West Spain. Mustiguillo is a family project, dedicated to organic viticulture and the pursuit of elegance and finesse rather than excess oak and the like. A well-rehearsed mantra maybe, but one that does not have many adherents of such pedigree.
There are over 200 different grape varieties used in modern wine making (from a total of over 1000). Most lesser known blends and varieties are traditional to specific parts of the world.
East-facing eponymously, and Mediterranean of climate and culture, the appellation of Valencia produces wines from a diverse array of styles and grapes, including, for the white varieties, Merseguera, Malvasía, Pedro Ximénez, Moscatel Romano, Planta Fina, Macabeo, Chardonnay, and to a lesser extent, Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon; and, for the red grapes, Monastrell, Garnacha Tintorera, Garnacha Tinta, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Bobal, Syrah.
Wine is bred in the bone here, and at all price points. Two of the most exciting bodegas are Bodega Mustiguillo and El Angosto, which certainly deserve to be better-known.