Critics reviews
Neal Martin - 31/10/2014
About this WINE
Lammershoek Wines
Lammeshoek are an iconoclastic South African winery based in Paardeberg. They have 70-hectare of vineyards on granitic, sandy soils that incorporates some very old bush vines as well as more recent plantings. They also have room for olive trees, chickens and cattle. Their winemaking philosophy is low intervention, with no new oak and minimal sulphuring.
Their LAM range is from young vines and is intended as a fruit expressive introduction to the winery. The Cellar Foot range is where their creativity and novel approach is fully expressed.
Chenin Blanc
Chenin Blanc is an important white grape variety planted in the Anjou-Saumur and Touraine regions of the Loire Valley and the most widely planted varietal grape in South Africa.
In the Loire it produces high quality dry wines in Savenniéres, and luscious sweet, dessert wines in Coteaux du Layon, Bonnezeaux and Quarts de Chaume. In Vouvray and Montlouis it can be dry, medium dry, or sweet, and still or sparkling. Whether dry or sweet, the best Loire Chenin Blancs possess marvellously concentrated rich, honeyed fruit together with refreshingly vibrant acidity. It is Chenin Blanc's high acidity that enable the wines to age so well.
In South Africa Chenin Blanc is easier to grow and is prized for its versatility. It is used as a cheap blending option with Chardonnay, Colombard, and Muscat but also bottled unblended. The best producers keep their yields low and produce impressive mouthfilling wines.
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Description
Aged for 18 months firstly in small barrels and then 2,700-liter foudres, the 2013 Chenin Blanc is a selection of Craig Hawkin’s favorite vineyards at around 270 meters, planted in 1966. It has a well-defined pure bouquet with scents of dried honey, jasmine, melted wax and orange rind that all vie for your attention. The palate is well-defined with an engaging apricot, marmalade and lemon zest entry. It has good weight in the mouth with a lovely waxy texture on the finish. Very fine. Drink 2014 -2020
Swartland prides itself on what you might call “maverickwinemakers, an ideal that I think can be traced back to Eben Sadie. If you want conservatism, then probably best head to other South African wine regions. And Lammershoek winemaker Craig Hawkins is certainly “out there” when it comes to winemaking, a young man steadfastly furrowing his own path, and that is not written in a negative sense, but a very positive one.
Yes these wines can occasionally be esoteric, unique, yet they are also wines you would like to see at your dinner table, preferably empty at the end.
With respect to the 2013 vintage, the fruit was picked February 4-6 by hand. “The 2013s are a big step forward from 2011,” Craig said. “They are cleaner, the balance better and more focused."
91/100 Neal Martin eRobertParker.com #215 Oct 2014
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