About this WINE
Donadei-Fabiani, Piedmont
The Donadei and Fabiani families have been making wine at Clavesana, near Dogliani, Piedmont, since 1700. In 1998 Fabrizio Fabiani and Andrea Luzi formally teamed up as the Luzi Donadei Fabiani cantina, with Fabrizio Fabiani responsible for tending and vinifying the 13.5 hectares of vineyards, 90% Dolcetto, that sit at 400 metres above sea level, on almost chalky white calcareous soils, perched overlooking the village of Clavesana below. Clavesana, along with Farigliano and Dogliani itself, forms part of the (Dolcetto) Dogliani DOCG zone, due south west of the Langhe, facing the Alps.
Fabrizio Fabiani, aided by his wife Antornella, and daughter Francesca, graduated from wine school in 1979, and started bottling at the family cantina in 1980. At the heart of the cantina lies the Vigneto Conzia, a steeply sloped, amphitheatric shaped vineyard, whose fruit is central to their Dogliani DOCG wine: a 100% Dolcetto, vinified in only stainless steel, so capturing the beautifully fresh, violet scented perfume of the grape. (Formerly labelled as ‘Dolcetto di Dogliani’, from vintage 2012 the region graduated to ‘DOCG’, losing the reference to ‘Dolcetto’ in the process.)
Dolcetto
A native black grape variety of Northern Italy grown almost exclusively in the provinces of Cuneo and Alessandria in Piedmont. It is relatively easy to cultivate, although it is susceptible to fungal diseases. It ripens before Barbera and Nebbiolo and is often grown in high north-facing sites which would be unsuitable for Nebbiolo.
The finest Dolcetto wines come from grapes grown on soils rich with white marls, especially those found on the right bank of the River Tauro. The wines generally are low in tannins and acidity and are usually fruity and fragrant, often with hints of almonds. Most Dolcettos should be drunk within a year or two of the vintage, but the wines from the best producers can last for 5 years and sometimes longer.
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Description
Fabrizio Fabiani's thrilling, violet-scented Dolcetto wine from the slopes above the river Tanaro is as pinpoint in 2013 as it was in 2012; the cooler (2013) vintage giving this wine added lift and racy intensity. Made without oak so as to capture the essence of Dolcetto from the chalky white soils of Clavesana, refreshed by the snow-capped Alps close-by, at modestly low alcohol of 12.5% alcohol, the light, finely woven, plummy-sweet fruit flavours, and cleansing acidity makes it a perfect antipasti wine for starters, or spring/summer luncheons, with cool cuts.
David Berry Green
This is fresh, vibrant and beautifully-scented Dolcetto at its best. On the nose, it is brimming with raspberries and violets. Light in body and with refreshing acidity, this really is the perfect red for long summer lunches.
Alice Cave - London Shop
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