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2013 Santenay Rouge, Beaurepaire, 1er Cru, Vincent Morey
Vincent, who physically resembles his father Bernard, has taken over the latter’s cellar near the Abbaye de Morgeot. He is married to Sophie, from Santenay, though she is the other principal owner with the Moreys of Chassagne premier cru Les Embrazées: did they meet while working in those vines?
The combined domaine is now 20 hectares in total, although some wines are still sold off in bulk. Vincent Morey is keen on lees-stirring, though having noted that it takes about two weeks for the suspended lees to fall clear, he now does his bâtonnage once a fortnight instead of every week, as his father used to do.
The wines of both père and fils have an engaging plumpness. The barrel regime is relatively standard across the cellar: 50 per cent new wood for the red premiers crus, while typically the whites receive 40 per cent each new and one-year-old wood, with the balance made up by two-year-old barrels. Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Embrazées is the domaine's flagship premier cru, since Vincent and Sophie’s marriage brought the two largest holdings together. It is usually a full, rich, ageworthy example with an intense mineral core.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director
After nearly three decades living and breathing the region’s wine, Jasper Morris MW, BBR Burgundy Buyer, has gathered all his knowledge and experience together in a comprehensive handbook, Inside Burgundy, available from our BB&R Press.
Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or.
Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.
Because of the thinness of the skins, Pinot Noir wines are lighter in colour, body and tannins. However the best wines have grip, complexity and an intensity of fruit seldom found in wine from other grapes. Young Pinot Noir can smell almost sweet, redolent with freshly crushed raspberries, cherries and redcurrants. When mature, the best wines develop a sensuous, silky mouth feel with the fruit flavours deepening and gamey "sous-bois" nuances emerging.
The best examples are still found in Burgundy, although Pinot Noir`s key role in Champagne should not be forgotten. It is grown throughout the world with notable success in the Carneros and Russian River Valley districts of California, and the Martinborough and Central Otago regions of New Zealand.
The small spa town of Santenay, just over the departmental border into the Saone-et-Loire, produces full, rich, quite firm red wines which can offer good value for money. One or two vineyards have recently been planted for white wine.
- 254 hectares of village Santenay.
- 124 hectares of premier cru vineyards (10 in all). Best vineyards include Les Gravières, La Maladière, Clos de Tavannes
- Recommended Producers: Lucien Muzard