About this WINE
Cillar de Silos
If one recalls one’s history, one will remember that it was the marriage of Ferdinand of Aragon and Isabella of Castile that set Spain on its road to unity. This is a somewhat whimsical introduction to Bodegas Cillar de Silos, which is located in the heart of Castille, Ribera del Duero to be precise, but owned and run by the brothers and sister team of Oscár, Roberto and Amelia Aragón.
They also manage the El Quintanal Estate in neighbouring wine region Rueda and are thus perfectly located for both red and white wine making, demonstrating all that is great about, respectively, Verdejo and Tempranillo as grape varieties.
The Aragóns define the House Philosophy with the words ‘purity, fruit, low yields, long ageing and hand selection’. The wines are finely crafted but demonstrably Spanish, which is good news!
Verdejo
One of Spain's higher quality white grape varieties which languished in obscurity for several hundred years before being rediscovered 15 years ago. It is a native grape of Rueda in North-west Spain and is now its principal white grape variety. It is most successfully cultivated in high altitude vineyards where the soils are calcareous and well drained.
Previously Verdejo-based wines were worryingly prone to premature oxidation. However techniques including night-time harvesting, cool fermentation and the use of an inert gas blanketing have led to the delicate and youthful aromatic freshness of the wines being preserved. It is often blended with Sauvignon Blanc to add body and richness to Sauvignon's aromatic lift. Its finest manifestation is Rueda Superior, which must contain a minimum of 85% Verdejo.
Typically Verdejo dominated wines are crisp with soft, creamy, nutty overtones, and sometimes accompanied by notes of honey. Arguably Spain's finest white grape variety.
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Description
The energetic siblings Oscár, Amelia and Roberto Aragón, already making very fine wines in Ribera del Duero, have extended their repertoire in a westerly direction, to the DO of Rueda to be precise. Verdejo is a grape variety with a long and generally honourable history; its tendency, as with many aromatic varieties, to oxidise quickly, led to a dip in appreciation in recent years.
Latterly, however, this has been addressed with more controlled use of stainless steel and careful monitoring of the fermentation temperatures. And now one can finally appreciate what Verdejo is all about….in essence a combination of fine aromatics and real weight, with a spicy kick at the back.
The aromatics bring to mind spring flowers and apricots, with hints of grapefruit evidenced; this complexity is carried forward to the palate, where the fruit is rounded and juicy, with generous passion fruit flavours and hints of nutmeg and quince. A wine combining freshness and complexity, youth and the semblance of maturity in a manner which is particular to this fascinating variety.
Simon Field MW, Wine Buyer
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