2013 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie, Gras Moutons, Dom. la Haute Févrie
About this WINE
Domaine la Haute Fevrie, Muscadet
The Domaine "la Haute Févrie" lies 18 km south-east of Nantes, right in the middle of the Muscadet Sèvre et Maine appellation. The estate vines grow on the hills overlooking the Sèvre, between Saint-Fiacre and Monnières. They enjoy optimum ripening conditions and the Muscadet they produce is highly expressive of the soil it grew on.
The estate covers 30 hectares of vineyards, all under the Muscadet Sèvre et Maine AOC. The estate is broken into several plots, each with a different aspect and on different soil: siliceous clay or gravelly and shallow, all on metamorphic rock, resulting in a range of highly individual “clos”: Le Clos de la Févrie, Les Mauguitonnières, Les Gras moutons (Saint-Fiacre), Le Clos Joubert, Le Moulin de la Gustais, Le Clos du Pégatine and many others.
The vines are managed with environmentally friendly principles (no chemical fertilizers, with yield control and grape picking entirely by hand), and according to the Terra Vitis method for sustainable wine growing. All these practices result into Muscadet wines that reflect closely their terroir and the natural characteristics of the grape.
Melon de Bourgogne
The most commonly grown grape in the Pays Nantais region of the Loire and the grape behind Muscadet wines. It was first planted in the Loire in the 17th century as the result of a severe frost and the decimation of most of the red varieties. Growers were attracted by the grape's resistance to frost and by its suitability for distillation.
It is a naturally high yielding grape that performs best on schistous and granitic soils. It produces very dry white wines with a distinctive mineral feel as well as almost neutral-flavoured fruit characteristics. Seldom seen outside the Pays Nantais, although there are some plantings in its native Burgundy.
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Description
This is very much a grown-up Muscadet; dare-I-say it seems like a cross between a Pouilly-Fume and Poully-Fuisse, Sauvignon and Chardonnay! Sebastien Branger at La Haute Fevrie has drawn the fruit for this exceptional Muscadet from a single parcel of Melo de Bourgogne, 'Le Gras Moutons', planted between the two tributaries Sevre and Maine.
The relative close proximity of the Atlantic Ocean is keenly felt on the crystalline, sea breezy nose. It's fabulously focussed, with pure yellow grapefruit pith aromas, along with hints of smoke and briny notes. Indeed it has an aromatic profile not dissimilar to that you might expect from Pouilly-Fume! It's definitely sleeker then than your average Muscadet. To taste, it's fuller too, more than its mere 12% alcohol would suggest, with oyster shell citrus skin flavours, a refined texture, plus a really ripe, almost doughy 'sweet' spot mid-palate that echoes Pouilly-Fuisse! It is brought to life by Sebastien's use of 100% whole-bunch pressed fruit and wild yeast in making this wine.
And as with the Atlantic tide, it comes and goes across the palate, urging you to have another sip. Drinking now but should be fascinating in a few years’ time.
David Berry Green
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