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2013 Santenay Blanc, Les Hates, Vincent Morey
Vincent, who physically resembles his father Bernard, has taken over the latter’s cellar near the Abbaye de Morgeot. He is married to Sophie, from Santenay, though she is the other principal owner with the Moreys of Chassagne premier cru Les Embrazées: did they meet while working in those vines?
The combined domaine is now 20 hectares in total, although some wines are still sold off in bulk. Vincent Morey is keen on lees-stirring, though having noted that it takes about two weeks for the suspended lees to fall clear, he now does his bâtonnage once a fortnight instead of every week, as his father used to do.
The wines of both père and fils have an engaging plumpness. The barrel regime is relatively standard across the cellar: 50 per cent new wood for the red premiers crus, while typically the whites receive 40 per cent each new and one-year-old wood, with the balance made up by two-year-old barrels. Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Embrazées is the domaine's flagship premier cru, since Vincent and Sophie’s marriage brought the two largest holdings together. It is usually a full, rich, ageworthy example with an intense mineral core.
Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director
After nearly three decades living and breathing the region’s wine, Jasper Morris MW, BBR Burgundy Buyer, has gathered all his knowledge and experience together in a comprehensive handbook, Inside Burgundy, available from our BB&R Press.
Chardonnay is the "Big Daddy" of white wine grapes and one of the most widely planted in the world. It is suited to a wide variety of soils, though it excels in soils with a high limestone content as found in Champagne, Chablis, and the Côte D`Or.
Burgundy is Chardonnay's spiritual home and the best White Burgundies are dry, rich, honeyed wines with marvellous poise, elegance and balance. They are unquestionably the finest dry white wines in the world. Chardonnay plays a crucial role in the Champagne blend, providing structure and finesse, and is the sole grape in Blanc de Blancs.
It is quantitatively important in California and Australia, is widely planted in Chile and South Africa, and is the second most widely planted grape in New Zealand. In warm climates Chardonnay has a tendency to develop very high sugar levels during the final stages of ripening and this can occur at the expense of acidity. Late picking is a common problem and can result in blowsy and flabby wines that lack structure and definition.
Recently in the New World, we have seen a move towards more elegant, better- balanced and less oak-driven Chardonnays, and this is to be welcomed.
The small spa town of Santenay, just over the departmental border into the Saone-et-Loire, produces full, rich, quite firm red wines which can offer good value for money. One or two vineyards have recently been planted for white wine.
- 254 hectares of village Santenay.
- 124 hectares of premier cru vineyards (10 in all). Best vineyards include Les Gravières, La Maladière, Clos de Tavannes
- Recommended Producers: Lucien Muzard
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