Low or Zero Dosage Champagnes are very modish at the moment, but can be extremely difficult to get right, the region’s historical infatuation with sugar being as a result of climatic obligation rather than any whimsical pursuit of pleasure. So to make a wine with no sugar and to entitle it Pure,is courageous indeed. Pol Roger, it should come as no great surprise to learn, have risen to their own challenge, and have done so with considerable aplomb.
The key seems to be to stick with the winning formula, in terms of grape varieties, namely a third each of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, but to select from specific (perhaps warmer) vineyards and to age for a little longer thereby engendering a natural softening. Spicy, with notes of crushed apple, broiche and peach stones, this is a very successful wine, suitably cerebral, one must surmise, to accompany any lively debate over a plate of 12 (or even possibly) 18 Fine de Claire Oysters.Pol Roger
If you prefer a little more dryness in your Champagne, this is a very interesting example. Pure is made without any extra sweetening sugar. A blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, it shows a delicate style with a trace of white fruits and rose petals.
Berry Bros. & Rudd wines featured in The Wall Street Journal by Will Lyons - 9 May 2013
Will Lyons writes a weekly column for The Wall Street Journal. His humorous, informed, down-to-earth writing has been recognized in both the Glenfiddich and Roederer wine writing Awards. He began his career in London, as a wine merchant in St. James’s where he developed a love for the classic wines of Europe. He has written for a variety of publications including The Scotsman, Reader’s Digest, The Spectator and Decanter.