Pol Roger, Pure, Extra Cuvée de Reserve

Low or Zero Dosage Champagnes are very modish at the moment, but can be extremely difficult to get right, the region’s historical infatuation with sugar being as a result of climatic obligation rather than any whimsical pursuit of pleasure. So to make a wine with no sugar and to entitle it Pure,is courageous indeed. Pol Roger, it should come as no great surprise to learn, have risen to their own challenge, and have done so with considerable aplomb.

The key seems to be to stick with the winning formula, in terms of grape varieties, namely a third each of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, but to select from specific (perhaps warmer) vineyards and to age for a little longer thereby engendering a natural softening. Spicy, with notes of crushed apple, broiche and peach stones, this is a very successful wine, suitably cerebral, one must surmise, to accompany any lively debate over a plate of 12 ( or even possibly ) 18 Fine de Claire Oysters.